To provide this tropical plant with the ideal care, place it in a bright, indirect light and grow in well-drained soil. You also need to keep the humidity level in its environment around 50% and lightly fertilize it regularly.

Eager to learn more about Alocasia Black Velvet and how to care for it? This article will give you all you need! 

What Are Alocasia Black Velvet Plants?

Scientifically known as Alocasia reginula, Alocasia Black Velvet is an ornamental plant belonging to the Araceae family. It’s also known as Little Queen Alocasia.

It’s native to Malaysia and is popular as a houseplant because of its unique appearance, manageable size, and suitability for indoor environments.

Black Velvet is a slow grower that reaches a maximum height of two feet. It has thick, heart-shaped, oval leaves that reach approximately 5 inches tall and wide. 

These leaves have a variety of textures and a unique black pigmentation with brilliant silver veins. That’s why it creates a striking contrast in any setting.

Quick Summary of Alocasia Black Velvet 

• Scientific name: Alocasia reginula A.Hay
• Common names: Black Velvet Elephant Ear, Alocasia Black Velvet, Little Queen Alocasia
• Light: Bright indirect sunlight
• Watering: Water when the top 2 inches of potting mix are dry
• Temperature: 60-80°F and above
• Hardiness zones: 10+ (USDA)
• Soil pH: Mildly acidic, 5.5 to 6.5
• Soil type: Well-drained
• Repotting: Every 2-3 years 
• Pruning: Minimal pruning requirements. Only trim off dead foliage.
• Size: 1 to 2 feet in height
• Bloom time: Rarely
• Propagation: By division or potting rhizome cuttings

How to Care for Alocasia Black Velvet

Black Velvet Alocasia thrives in bright, indirect sunlight and well-drained, loose-potting soil. It also prefers high humidity but without excessive watering. 

A temperature between 60 and 80°F is ideal for this plant as well. As for fertilizing, you’ll need to feed it lightly every two to four weeks during its growing season.

What else? Let’s dive into the care requirements of this tropical houseplant:

Provide Indirect Sunlight

Alocasia Black Velvet grows on the floor of tropical jungles in their original habitat, receiving little sunlight. They’ve developed their dark leaves over the years to be able to collect more light while in their low position in forests.

So, unlike other Alocasia varieties that can tolerate full sun, you should avoid placing Black Velvet in direct sunlight as it’s highly susceptible to sunburns. Instead, you need to grow it in bright but indirect light. 

That said, keep in mind that the stems of this plant will turn leggy and straggly in conditions with too little light. In this case, it won’t be able to produce its unique dark foliage color. 

As such, the ideal location for this plant is in front of a north or east-facing window. Still, ensure that the morning light in your area isn’t intense. 

Choose a Loose Well-Drained Potting Mix

When picking the soil for this plant, remember that root rot is one of its major problems. So, you need to choose a well-drained loose potting mix. 

Ideally, opt for a tropical mix made of sand, loom, and bark.

Avoid potting soil high in coco coir or absorbent peat moss. These components can retain a considerable amount of water, increasing the plant’s odds of root rot development.

Besides potting mix, choosing a pot with decent drainage holes is vital for this houseplant.

Water Regularly but Carefully

Let’s make it clear: this indoor plant is incredibly picky when it comes to watering. It likes high humidity but can’t tolerate too much water. 

So, you’ll need to be meticulous when setting its watering schedule. You should avoid keeping its soil highly wet for an extended period. Its fragile, fine roots need room to breathe between waterings.

Here’s how to water it: you need to wait until the top 20% layer of the soil is dry before watering the plant. Typically, this means watering approximately once a week in spring and summer. 

Water it deeply and ensure you thoroughly saturate the soil. Then, allow any excess moisture to drain away. 

Control Temperature and Humidity

Warmth and high humidity are essentials for many tropical lowland plants, including Alocasia Black Velvet plants. They won’t do well in cold rooms or dry environments. 

To be more specific, this plant thrives when the humidity level is more than 50%. That’s why you need to use a humidifier or pebble tray or regularly mist the plant to increase the humidity level. 

As for temperature, ideally, you’ll need to ensure your Alocasia grows in a 60-80°F environment. 

Fertilize Lightly Every 2-4 Weeks

Alocasia Black Velvet is a slow-grower; don’t think of the low growth pace as a sign of insufficient nutrients. 

Unlike other Alocasia species, this one doesn’t require heavy supplemental feeding. In fact, heavy feeding will negatively impact the pace of its growth. 

Here’s the thing: you need to fertilize this plant regularly but not heavily. 

This means you should feed it every 2 weeks or monthly during spring and summer. For best results, use a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer.

Can You Grow Alocasia Black Velvet Plants from Seeds

Although it’s possible to grow Alocasia Black Velvet from seeds, we don’t recommend you do so. This process can be highly tricky and slow and won’t fit the vast majority of people. 

There are also no clear instructions you can follow to guarantee the success of growing these plants from seeds.

Given that, a better and much easier way to propagate this Alocasia is by potting rhizome cuttings or dividing clumps. We’ll cover how to use these methods in the following sections. 

How to Repot Alocasia Black Velvet Plants

Black Velvet prefers to grow while slightly rootbound and is known for its slow growth. As such, you won’t need to repot it annually. 

Instead, you might repot it once every two to three years. This is when the roots start to run out of the container, and the pot becomes tight for the plant. 

Before repotting your plant, you should choose the right timing and new container. Summer and spring are optimal times for repotting Alocasia Black Velvet as it’s strongest in these seasons. 

When picking a new pot, you’ll need to choose one that’s 2 inches in diameter larger than the old one. When it’s time to repot your Black Velvet, follow these steps to do this properly:

1. Gently pull out the plant from its pot. Avoid damaging any part of the roots as much as possible. Inspect the root for rot, and if you find any, trim off the affected parts. 
2. Prepare the new pot by filling its bottom with a thick layer of a suitable potting mix. Then, place the plant in the container, center its roots, and keep filling around it with the soil.
3. Water the plant by sprinkling and trying to saturate the entire potting soil without turning it too soggy.
4. Place the Black Velvet Alocasia in an indirect light and provide it with all the regular care requirements.

How to Care for Alocasia Black Velvet Plants in All Seasons

The general care requirements mentioned above are perfect for the plant’s growing seasons, which are spring and summer. Besides these requirements, you need to understand how plant needs vary as seasons change.

In the fall, you need to reduce watering and increase the time of the plant’s exposure to sunlight. In winter, you’ll also need to considerably reduce watering frequency as the plant growth slows down and may enter a dormancy phase.

If you live in an area with dry indoor air in winter, you should monitor the humidity level and increase it to 50% if it drops.

In addition, you should protect the plant from sudden temperature drops and cold drafts during these months.

As for lighting requirements, if you notice a substantial decrease in sunlight in winter, you might need to use supplementary grow lights.

Regarding fertilizing, you’ll need to reduce feeding in the fall. In winter, however, you should completely stop fertilizing the plant altogether.

How to Propagate Alocasia Black Velvet Plants

As mentioned earlier, growing Alocasia Black Velvet plants from seed is possible but difficult and incredibly slow.

Conversely, propagating the plants by potting rhizome cuttings (underground stems) or dividing clumps are fast and reliable options. With that in mind, the best time for propagating is spring when the plant gets out of the dormancy phase. 

Once you’re ready for propagation, here’s how to propagate Alocasia Black Velvet using the simplest method, potting rhizome cuttings:

1. Before you start, wear gloves when you touch this plant, as it can irritate your skin.
2. Pull the plant out from its container and brush off the soil surrounding its roots. The goal here is to expose the rhizome.
3. Bring a clean knife and start cutting a few healthy rhizome offsets from the stem in the center.
4. Put the new cutting in a well-drained but moist potting mix. Place the pot in a warm, humid environment.
5. Wait for a couple of weeks until these cuts start to grow roots and the new growth appears.

What Family Do Alocasia Black Velvet Plants Belong to?

Black velvet Alocasia is a member of the Araceae (Aroid) family, also known as the arum or aroid family.

Although it’s a flowering plant from the Araceae types, Alocasia Black Velvet rarely blooms. Even when it blossoms, its flowers aren’t attention-grabbing.

How Long Do Alocasia Black Velvet Plants Live?

The Alocasia reginula is a long-lived houseplant, but its exact lifespan is unknown. Some gardeners state it can live for up to 10 years, while others report it lives for only a few.

That said, to maximize its lifespan, you should pay close attention to its growing condition and provide it with the ideal settings to thrive.

What Are Common Pests and Plant Diseases for Alocasia Black Velvet Plants?

Luckily, Black Velvet is relatively healthier than a lot of other Alocasias. Most of the time, it won’t suffer any diseases if grown in optimal conditions. 

However, it can be prone to spider mites if it grows in a dry environment. To protect it from this pest, you’ll need to check regularly that your Alocasia enjoys the high humidity level it prefers. 

Besides spider mites, a few signs can indicate your Alocasia isn’t growing healthy. The following are the most common:

• Curling leaves: this signifies your plant receives harmful direct sunlight. So, you’ll need to relocate it to another place with more dappled light.
• Brown tips: this indicates that your plant doesn’t get enough water. These brown tips can also be the result of too much fertilizing.
• Yellowing leaves: when the leaves turn yellow, you probably have an overwatering issue. So, you’ll need to use better-draining soil and pot or reduce watering frequency.

How to Tell If Alocasia Black Velvet Isn’t Growing

Alocasia Black Velvet grows slowly and can take up to 5 years to reach maturity. Beginner gardeners might get confused and think a natural, healthy Black Velvet isn’t growing well.

That said, some plant issues might restrict the growth of your Alocasia; we’ve mentioned four of them in the above section.

Besides these problems, here are additional indicators that your plant might not grow well:

• Leaf drop: this can indicate high stress due to underwatering, overwatering, or fast temperature changes.
• Stunted new leaf growth: this can be a sign that the plant receives insufficient fertilizer or inadequate lighting.

If you notice one of these signs or the four in the section above, you’ll need to determine the root of the problem and solve it promptly. 

Are Alocasia Black Velvet Plants Poisonous?

The Alocasia Black Velvet plant is poisonous to both animals and humans. Just touching the plant can cause skin irritation. 

It can lead to irritation to the tongue, lips, throat, and mouth when chewed. Even worse, ingesting the plant can lead to vomiting, nausea, and diarrhea. 

That’s why you should keep your Black Velvet Alocasia out of your children’s and pets’ reach.

Does Alocasia Black Velvet Plant Flower?

Alocasia Black Velvet can produce flowers, but this rarely happens. Its flowers also aren’t impressive or showy: it consists of a white spadix and a yellow spathe surrounding it. 

Some gardeners even remove the flowers once detected to conserve the plant’s energy and direct it toward foliage growth. 

How to Help the Alocasia Black Velvet Plant Grow 

If you notice that your Alocasia Black Velvet is dying, you’ll need to promptly discover and address the cause of the problem.

Look for signs of yellowing or dropping leaves or pests on your houseplant. 

If you discover a pest infesting your plants, you’ll need to treat it with neem oil or an insecticide soap. You’ll also need to trim off any severely infested or damaged parts.

If you detect leaf issues, like yellowing or dropping, you’ll need to adjust your watering schedule. In this case, you should improve humidity using a humidifier or pebble tray as well. 

In addition, ensure you’re providing the plant with its essential care requirements.

The post How to Grow and Care for Alocasia Black Velvet (Alocasia Reginula)  appeared first on Garden and Plant Care.

To grow a healthy Alocasia zebrina, you need to provide it with bright indirect light, well-drained soil, and a humid environment. 

You’ll also need to place it in a warm location with 65-85°F temperature and water it weekly. Because it’s a heavy feeder, you should fertilize it every month. 

Eager to learn more about this gorgeous plant and its care requirements in detail? Just keep reading!

What Are Alocasia Zebrina Plants?

Alocasia zebrina (scientific name) is a tropical plant of the Araceae family. It’s also known as zebra plant, elephant ear, zebrina Alocasia, and tiger taro. It’s native to subtropical and tropical forests of Southeast Asia.

Many grow Alocasia zebrina as an ornamental house plant because of its unique, exquisite appearance.

Here’s exactly how it looks: it has heart-shaped leaves, typically striped white and green, topping a striking stem. This stem features yellow and black markings resembling a zebra look. 

The plant can reach a height of six feet, and its leaf length ranges between 4 and 13.5 inches.

Quick Summary of Alocasia Zebrina

Here’s a quick look at Alocasia zebrina’s characteristics and its care requirements:

• Common names: Zebra plant, zebrina Alocasia, tiger taro
• Light: Medium to bright indirect sunlight
• Water: Weekly watering and frequent misting
• Temperature: Between 65°F and 85°F
• Hardiness zone: 10-11 (USDA)
• Soil pH: Neutral, acidic
• Soil type: Moist and well-draining
• Repotting: Every two to three years
• Pruning: Minimal pruning: only remove dying and damaged foliage
• Size: Up to 6 ft
• Bloom time: Rarely flowers indoors
• Propagation: By division or growing corms

How to Care for Alocasia Zebrina

Alocasia zebrina requires special care to thrive. You’ll need to provide it with daily indirect sunlight, regular fertilizing during growing seasons, and well-drained soil. You should also water it lightly and provide a temperature above 65°F.

Here’s how to offer this tropical plant the ideal growing conditions in detail: 

Provide Indirect Sunlight

Alocasia zebrina requires several hours of indirect sunlight per day to thrive. However, it’s highly sensitive to sunburns, so you shouldn’t expose it to sweltering direct sunlight. This houseplant is also susceptible to dropping leaves if it stays in a low-light condition. 

Here’s what to do: we recommend placing Alocasia zebrina directly in front of a north or east-facing window to provide the required brightness. 

Nonetheless, if you place it in front of a west or south-facing window, keep it a couple of feet away from the window edge. This is to avoid exposing it to direct sunlight.

Alternatively, you can filter the direct sunlight using a window film or sheer curtain. 

Offer Well-Drained Soil Mix

This indoor plant is susceptible to root rot in case of overwatering. As such, you’ll need to pay significant attention to the quality of its soil mix to avoid this serious problem.

We recommend planting it in a well-drained soil mix consisting of equal parts of pumice or perlite, potting soil, and coco peat. 

Water Lightly Regularly

Alocasia zebrina won’t tolerate soggy soil, but it also won’t grow healthy if its soil dries out regularly. So, what to do? 

You’ll need to keep the soil lightly moist constantly, yet only water when the top inch of the soil is slightly dry.  

In addition, when watering, you should ensure the pot allows the excess water to drain.

Control Temperature and Humidity

This tropical plant doesn’t tolerate cold environments. It’ll have a hard time growing if it stays in temperatures below 65°F for an extended period.

Ideally, Alocasia zebrina should grow in a warm environment between 65-85°F. So, you’ll need to adjust the house temperature when it drops significantly to save your plant.

Regarding humidity, this plant prefers humid environments, yet it can still do well in slightly dry conditions.

If you grow it in a dry condition, watch for crispy edges, curling leaves, or dropping leaves. If you notice any of these signs, you’ll need to provide the plant with more humidity.

To do so, place it in a naturally humid room such as a kitchen or laundry room. Alternatively, you can use a humidifier.

Fertilize Consistently

Alocasia zebrina is a heavy feeder that will consume considerable nutrients to grow healthy. So, you’ll need to fertilize it once a month during summer and spring using a balanced houseplant fertilizer. 

That said, you should stop fertilizing the plant in winter and fall as it doesn’t grow actively during that time.

How to Grow Alocasia Zebrina Plants

Although growing Alocasia zebrina from seeds is uncommon, it’s possible. If you want to propagate this plant from seeds, the following steps will help you do this properly:

1. Prepare a humid peat-based potting mix and add it to a pot. Then, extract Alocasia zebrina seeds from a dried pod and scatter them on the surface of the soil mix.
2. Sprinkle a small layer of slightly moist potting mix on the top of the seeds. Cover the pot with a clear wrap or plastic bag to keep it warm. 
3. You should keep the pot covered until you notice the germination of the seeds. Still, you’ll just uncover it daily for around 15 minutes to 1 hour to provide the seeds with some airflow.
4. Place the container in an indirect light and mist the potting mix from one time to another to keep it lightly moist.
5. Be patient, as seed germination takes three weeks to three months.

How to Repot Alocasia Zebrina Plants

Here’s some good news: you don’t have to repot Alocasia zebrina yearly. In fact, the plant thrives when its root is bound in a small pot. 

You’ll probably need to repot it every two to three years. This is when you notice the roots running out of the pot drainage holes, and the container looks cramped. 

In this case, you should consider moving it into a larger container. The best time to repot this indoor plant is spring or summer when it’s strongest.

In addition, the ideal pot for your plant would be 2 to 4 inches larger than the previous one. 

This specific size will allow the plant an adequate place to grow further without being too large, causing water accumulation.

To minimize the plant stress during transplantation, you need to water it adequately one or two days before repotting.

Once you’re ready to repot your Alocasia zebrina, follow these steps to do it properly: 

1. Gently pull the plant out of the old pot and examine the roots. If you notice separate root systems, it may be time to divide the plant.
2. To separate the plant, remove the old soil covering the root system and start to untangle the roots while keeping them intact as much as possible.
3. If you decide not to divide the plant, you need to maintain the soil surrounding the root ball. The only soil to remove is the crusted layer that surrounds the periphery.
4. Prepare the new pot by adding a thick layer of potting mix. Place the plant on the top of the soil while centering the root ball. 
5. Start to fill the sides of the container, but try to keep a minimum of 1 inch empty at the top.
6. Start to provide it with the care requirements of a normal Alocasia zebrina plant. 

How to Care for Alocasia Zebrina Plants in All Seasons

You should pay close attention to the seasonal changes and adjust your care for Alocasia zebrina accordingly. 

In summer and spring, you need to water the plant regularly and give it constant fertilization. Because these seasons are generally dry, you need to keep monitoring the humidity level around the plant and increase it when it drops.

In fall and winter, on the other hand, you may need to reduce the watering slightly. You should stop fertilizing the plant until the following growing season as well. In addition, you’ll need to protect your Alocasia zebrina from cold drafts at that time. 

How to Propagate Alocasia Zebrina Plants?

You can propagate Alocasia zebrina plants by division or growing corms. In either case, to propagate any type of plants, you’ll need to pick healthy, strong individuals for this purpose.

It’s also wise to propagate during the repotting process. Once you’re ready, here are the steps to follow to propagate an Alocasia zebrina using the simple division method: 

1. Gently remove the plant from the container and brush any excess soil off its roots. Note that each plant grows from an individual bulb.
2. Separate the bulbs and roots from each other to divide the plant.
3. Plant the divided plants in a new well-draining potting mix. Water the plants well and place the pots in a location with indirect light.

What Family Do Alocasia Zebrina Plants Belong to?

Alocasia zebrina belongs to the Arum family, also known as the Araceae family. It’s one of the ornamental plants that make up the Araceae types. 

This indoor tropical plant is native to the Philippines. It’s universally appealing because of its zebra-like shape. 

How Long Do Alocasia Zebrina Plants Live?

Unfortunately, there’s no accurate data and information we can rely on to predict the lifespan of Alocasia zebrina. 

However, we can tell it’s a long-living plant based on the experiences shared by many gardeners online. 

Most of these gardeners stated that Alocasia zebrina can live for several years with proper care.

What Are Common Pests and Diseases for Alocasia Zebrina Plants?

Alocasia zebrina is highly prone to spider mites, mealybugs, and fungus gnats because of the moist conditions this plant prefers. 

You also need to keep an eye out for root rot that can result from overwatering and poor soil drainage. 

If you notice brown, mushy stems, dropping leaves, or yellowing leaves, you need to inspect the root for rot.

Besides these common problems, here are a few issues you need to be aware of:

• Dropping leaves: This indicates the plant suffers from underwatering, lack of light, insufficient humidity, overwatering, or even root rot.
• Curling leaves: This is an indication that your plant receives inadequate moisture.
• Yellow leaves: This can be a result of overwatering, underwatering, or even lack of light
• Stem bending: This might be a sign that the stems contain too much water because the soil doesn’t dry out properly.

How to Tell If the Alocasia Zebrina Plant Isn’t Growing

Several signs can indicate that your Alocasia zebrina isn’t growing enough. The most obvious ones are wilting, lack of new leaf production, and yellowing leaves.

This slow growth of your Alocasia zebrina is usually caused by underwatering, overwatering, poor drainage, pest infestation, or just dormancy.

So, you’ll need to figure out the root of the problem to be able to solve it. 

Are Alocasia Zebrina Poisonous?

Alocasia zebrina is toxic for humans and animals, including pets such as dogs and cats. This houseplant contains oxalate crystals that cause multiple harmful reactions when ingested, including vomiting, nausea, diarrhea, and mouth pain.

That way, we recommend keeping your Alocasia zebrina entirely away from your children and pets by placing it in a high spot.

How to Help the Alocasia Zebrina Plant to Grow

If you start noticing your Alocasia zebrina is dying, you need to determine the causes promptly. Here are a few signs to look for to help your plant grow.

Symptoms like droopy stems, yellowing leaves, and collapsed stems usually indicate that your plant is dying from overwatering. Developing root rot can also be an excessive watering problem.

On the other hand, if you spot pale leaves, your plant is probably experiencing a severe lack of light. Another common sign is brown edges, mainly indicating a lack of humidity.

Obviously, if your Alocasia is experiencing any of these severe issues, you want to address the potential cause as quickly as possible.

Here’s how: if your plant is dying due to overwatering, you’ll need to let the soil almost dry before watering it again.

If it’s a lack of lighting problem, you’ll need to relocate your houseplant into a brighter location to receive more sunlight.

To get over the dehydration problem, you need to use methods like pebble trays or misting to revive the plant. 

However, if your plant experiences severe root rot, it must be repotted in new, well-drained soil. Before doing so, trim off any affected roots to stop the rot from spreading.

The post How to Care For and Grow All Types of Alocasia Zebrina Plants appeared first on Garden and Plant Care.

To grow and care for it, use well-aerated soil that retains enough moisture to keep the plant hydrated. The soil should be consistently moist, but don’t over-water it.

Fertilize the plant once a month and keep the pot somewhere with bright, indirect light and a temperature over 65℉. That should do it!

What Are Alocasia Polly Plants?

The Alocasia x amazonica ‘Polly’ is a distinctive plant that hails from the tropical lands of South Asia and belongs to the famous Araceae family (Aroid plants). It’s often called the African Mask Plant because of its saturated colors and bold markings that resemble an African mask.

The iconic heart-shaped dark green leaves and creamy veins make a bold statement and increase the aesthetics of any indoor space tenfold.

You don’t have to be an experienced phytologist to grow this plant. It’s as beginner-friendly as plants get.

If you provide an ideal growing environment, you can expect it to grow to 2 ft tall and wide. So, it’ll take up a good chunk of your house garden.

Quick Summary of Alocasia Polly

Now, you have a general idea of the origin and visual appeal of the Alocasia Polly. 

We’ve barely scratched the surface, though. Let’s go a bit more in-depth:

• Scientific name:  Alocasia x amazonica ‘Polly’
• Common names: Alocasia Polly, African mask plant, Elephant’s ear
• Light: Bright, indirect light
• Watering: Keep the soil moist
• Temperature: Above 65℉
• Hardiness zone: 10-12
• Soil pH: Acidic
• Soil type: Rich, well-draining, moist
• Repotting: Every 2-3 years
• Pruning: In spring or summer
• Size: 2-3 ft tall and wide
• Bloom time: Spring
• Propagation: The division method

How to Care for Alocasia Polly Plants?

You won’t enjoy the beauty of an Alocasia Polly unless you know how to care for it. Luckily for you, we’ll cover every step in the process here.

The first thing you want to focus on is the soil. Choose a well-draining type, and keep it moist all the time but not soggy.

The Alocasia Polly loves warm climates, so keep the temperature above 65℉ and expose it to bright, indirect sunlight. Fertilize your plant every month, and you’ll have a happy Alocasia.

Provide Indirect Sunlight

The Alocasia Polly is native to tropical lands, where tall canopy trees block most of the sunlight, preventing it from making direct contact with the plant.

That’s why it thrives in bright, indirect sunlight. So, you want to place it in front of north-facing windows. These usually don’t receive direct light because they face away from the sun.

If you’re dead set on placing it in front of a south-facing window, you should at least keep it behind a curtain. It’ll filter enough of the sunlight, protecting the leaves from potential burns.

If your Alocasia isn’t growing at the right pace, it’s probably not receiving enough sunlight. Consider removing it to a brighter spot.

Helpful tip: Rotate the pot now and then to ensure every part of your Alocasia receives sufficient sunlight.

Mix Your Own Soil

Ultimately, your soil should retain enough moisture to keep the plant hydrated all the time but drain excess water to prevent root rot.

For a soil mix to do this, it should be light, rich, and well-draining with plenty of air pockets to give the roots room to breathe. Where can you find that? That’s the problem.

That type of pre-mixed soil is difficult to find on the market, so your best bet is to make it at home.

It sounds complicated, but it’s simpler than you think and might even be more cost-effective in the long run.

To mix the soil, combine two parts coconut coir, one part perlite, one part fir bark, and one part worm castings.  

At first glance, they sound like random components mushed together, but each ingredient in that mix plays a crucial role. Coconut coir prevents waterlogging and improves water retention.

Perlite helps with drainage, fir bark enhances aeration, and worm castings provide nutrients.

You can also combine equal parts potting mix, sphagnum moss, perlite, and bark. Sphagnum moss prevents excess moisture loss. So, that mixture works as effectively.

Add an Adequate Amount of Water

If you’re a new plant parent, your first instinct might be to shower your child with love and care. So, you water it daily to ensure it grows strong and healthy.

That’s a recipe for disaster, though. Watering the Alocasia Polly is a bit complicated because it doesn’t have a set watering routine.

Your goal is to keep the soil consistently moist. That means watering it as much as possible.

Here’s the problem: With that type of watering routine, you can easily fall into the trap of over-watering your plant, which causes root rot and leaf discoloration.

So, always check the surface of the soil first. If it’s moist, you don’t have to water it. Wait until it’s dry, but don’t wait too long until the soil dries out because that would cause dehydration.

Helpful tip: Avoid terracotta pots. They dry the soil out too quickly.

Control the Temperature

As an inhabitant of tropical Asian lands, Alocasia Polly plants prefer warm environments. Avoid the cold climate at all costs.

Ideally, you want to keep the temperature above 65℉. That shouldn’t be a problem for most people, given that’s the average room temperature.

If it drops lower than that, your Alocasia will think it’s time to go dormant. You’ll have to wait a long time before it becomes active again, and if it gets too cold, your plant might die.

Provide a Balanced Fertilizer

The Alocasia Polly isn’t a heavy feeder, but it still requires a decent amount of nutrients to grow healthy leaves, especially during spring, its growth season.

On average, apply fertilizer once every month and stick to a diluted, balanced type to sustain your plant’s growth.

If you suspect your plant has been a victim of pests, don’t fertilize it. That will do more harm than good.

How to Grow Alocasia Polly Plants?

You already know how to care for a young Alocasia Polly. Good job! Do you know how to grow its seeds, though?

Alocasia Polly plants rarely produce seeds. So, when yours does, you better be ready to plant them and grow more Alocasias.

The first step is to wait for the pods containing these seeds to dry out.

If you retrieve the seeds before that, they won’t be mature enough, and you won’t get a vital, healthy plant.

When the pods dry out, their color will change, and they’ll curl downwards. The seeds won’t be that clean, so you might want to wipe them with paper towels or soak them in water before dealing with them.

Now, plant them in well-aerated soil that can offer them enough moisture to grow strong. You can buy a typical houseplant soil and add perlite to it.

Again, you want to keep the soil moist but not soggy and place the pot somewhere with bright, indirect sunlight and a temperature of 70℉ or above.

Note: Not all the seeds will grow at the same rate. Some might take a couple of weeks to start germinating. Others might take a couple of months.

Over time, your Alocasia will outgrow its pot, and you’ll have to replant it in another one that’s one or two inches larger.

How to Repot Alocasia Polly Plants?

Alocasia Polly plants take two or three years to outgrow their pots. In some cases, it might even take a few years, so you have plenty of time to learn how to repot them.

When it’s time to do so, follow these steps:

• Grab a larger pot and fill its bottom third with your potting mix. You can pour some water on it to help it settle, but it’s not necessary.
• Take your Alocasia out of its small pot and check the roots to ensure they’re healthy.
• Place your plant in the new pot, filling the rest of it with soil.
• Water the soil and place the pot somewhere warm with bright sunlight.

How to Care for Alocasia Polly Plants in All Seasons?

You know what people say: There’s a time and place for everything. That also applies to your Alocasia Polly care routine.

The plants care routine will change depending on the season.

During the winter, you’ll reduce the watering frequency. The plant enters its dormant phase during that season, so the soil takes longer to dry, which increases the time between waterings.

You’ll also want to keep the plant away from windows during winter because it can’t handle the cold.

When it comes to repotting, the best time to do so is during the spring or summer because that’s the plant’s growth season.

How to Propagate Alocasia Polly Plants?

So, you’ve bought your first Alocasia Polly, and it’s added all the energy and life you hoped it would add to your house. Now, you want to acquire a few more Alocasias.

Here’s the thing: You don’t have to buy new ones. You can learn how to propagate plants and use that knowledge to grow new Alocasias. Here’s how:

• Lift your Alocasia off the pot and loosen the soil with your hand to unravel the small offshoots.
• Cut the small roots with a sharp pair of scissors or a knife.
• Place the roots in the soil and provide a proper growing environment.

Now, wait for the new Alocasias to grow.

What Family Do Alocasia Polly Plants Belong to?

Alocasia Polly plants belong to the Araceae plant family. Species within that family are usually divided into rhizomatous or tuberous.

The Alocasia Polly belongs to the former. Besides Alocasias, the other Araceae types include the Anthurium, Caladium, and Monstera plants.

How Long Do Alocasia Polly Plants Live for?

No one can say for sure how long Alocasia Polly plants can live. It depends on whether or not you provide an environment that caters to their needs.

If you create the ideal growing environment, they can last five years, maybe even more. 

What Are Common Pest and Plant Diseases for Alocasia Polly Plants?

Alocasia Polly plants are sturdy and durable, but they’re not invincible. Like most plants, they’ll face pest infestations and diseases at one point.

When that happens, you need to be ready.

Pests

Pests are plants’ Achilles heel. No matter how strong your Alocasias are, one infestation can bring them down. 

What kind of infestations do they face, though? Spider Mites

If you notice small yellow and white spots appearing on the leaves of your Alocasia, move it away from other plants.

That means it’s become a victim of spider mites. Now, cut the damaged leaves/stems, and you’ll have a happy, healthy plant.

Diseases

Fungal diseases are probably the most common threat Alocasia Polly plants face. They usually occur when you mist the leaves, which is taboo in the world of Alocasia Polly plants.

If that happens, cut all the affected leaves and avoid misting your plant in the future.

How to Tell If Alocasia Polly Plant Is Not Growing?

The obvious answer here is to keep tabs on the plant’s growth rate. However, you can also look at the roots.

If they’re mushy and discolored, you might want to reassess your care routine. Maybe you’re not using proper soil or have exposed the plant to cold temperatures.

Stunted growth doesn’t always mean you did something wrong. If the roots look fine, your Alocasia might just be in its dormant stage.

Are Alocasia Polly Plants Poisonous?

Unfortunately, Alocasia Polly plants don’t taste as good as they look. Like many other Araceae plants, their leaves contain calcium oxalate, which is poisonous to pets.

It causes vomit, extreme stinging in the mouth, edema, and more.

How to Help Alocasia Polly Plant to Grow?

Growing a houseplant doesn’t always go as planned. You think you’re doing well and providing your plant with all the nutrients it needs. Then, the leaves start drooping/curling, their color starts changing, and the plant stops growing.

That’s a big problem, as it suggests your care routine doesn’t check all the marks. So, you might want to change the soil, the location of the pot, or your watering schedule.

Start by changing one of them and see if it makes a difference. If not, move to the next. It won’t be long before your plant regains its energetic demeanor.

The post How to Grow and Care for All Types of Alocasia Polly (Alocasia amazonica) Plants appeared first on Garden and Plant Care.

You’ve probably already heard of the Amazonian elephant’s ear and how stunning it looks. Well, maintaining that visual appeal isn’t easy. You have to provide the ideal growing environment for the plant.

Here’s what to do to grow and care for the Elephant’s ear: use a proper soil mix that gives the roots room to breathe. The soil should be moist but not overwatered. 

For further growth, fertilize your plant every 2-4 weeks, and keep the pot in a warm environment (65-80℉) where it can receive indirect sunlight. If you abide by these rules, you’ll have a stunning Alocasia with striking leaves.

What Are Alocasia X Amazonica Plants?

The Alocasia x amazonica is a hybrid plant that belongs to a large, flowering family called the Araceae.

With dark green leaves and whitish veins, it’s become a popular houseplant that adds unique aesthetics to any house it sits in.

Besides its visual appeal, the Alocasia x amazonica is a versatile plant that doesn’t require much effort to grow.

If you provide a proper environment, it can grow 2 ft tall/wide and develop arrow-shaped leaves that look like elephants’ ears. Hence, the name “Amazonian elephant’s ear.”

Quick Summary of Alocasia X Amazonica

We’ve barely scratched the surface with the previous section. Let’s see what else there’s to know about this plant.

• Scientific name: Alocasia x amazonica
• Common names: Amazonian elephant’s ear
• Light: Bright, indirect light
• Watering: When the soil dries
• Temperature: 65-80℉
• Hardiness zone: 9-12
• Soil pH: Neutral or acidic
• Soil type: Moist, well-draining soil
• Repotting: Annual
• Pruning: During the growing season
• Size: It can grow to become 1-2 ft tall/wide
• Bloom time: Spring and summer
• Propagation: Division

How to Care for Alocasia X Amazonica Plants

Now that we’ve covered the basics, it’s time to delve into the nuances of caring for an Alocasia x amazonica.

It’s not that different from caring for any other tropical houseplant. You can start by using well-draining soil and placing the pot in a warm indoor spot with indirect sunlight.

Water it whenever the soil feels dry, and apply fertilizer every 2-4 weeks. Here’s the extended version of the growth instructions:

1. Provide Sunlight

Like most tropical plants, the Alocasia x amazonica needs bright, indirect light to develop healthy leaves. It can withstand direct sunlight for a short period if it’s not too intense.

A north-facing window would be the perfect location. If you want to place the plant in front of a south-facing window, keep it behind a sheer curtain.

You can tell your Alocasia isn’t receiving enough sunlight when the leaves/veins lose their color and the plant goes dormant. In that case, move it right away.

2. Mix Soil

Your soil should be rich, light, and acidic, but a neutral mix would work just as well. Ideally, you want to use soil that drains excess water but retains enough moisture to keep the plant hydrated.

Unfortunately, ready-made soil mixes with these qualities are somewhat rare. If you want to ensure your soil provides your Alocasia with the necessary nutrients, your best bet is to mix it yourself.

Don’t worry. It’s not rocket science. All you have to do is add one part potting mix, one part coconut coir, one part orchid bark, and ¼ part perlite.

Coconut coir and orchid bark aerate the soil, while perlite helps with drainage.

You can also combine one part potting mix, one part coarse sand, one part vermiculite, and one part fir bark. Vermiculite retains water, coarse sand improves drainage, and fir bark helps release moisture into the soil.

As you can see, these ingredients aren’t random. Each component contributes to making the perfect soil. So, don’t skip any of them, or your soil will do more harm than good.

If you don’t want to mix your own soil, though, we recommend going with Pray For Us from Oh Happy Plants.

It retains the right amount of moisture, gives the Alocasia room to breathe, and doesn’t include peat moss. So you don’t have to worry about potential environmental damage.

3. Add Water

Watering the Alocasia x amazonica is probably the most challenging part of the care routine, as they don’t have a specific watering schedule.

Ultimately, you want to keep the soil moist all the time, so water it as often as possible, especially during the growth season.

Don’t overdo it, though, as excess watering will suffocate the roots, causing root rot. You can always check the top two inches of the soil.

If it’s dry, add some water. If it’s still damp, then wait a few more days. Don’t wait until it completely dries out, or you’ll be risking dehydration.

If you’re a new plant owner, identifying if the soil is properly dry or not might be challenging. So, we recommend using a moisture meter to get an accurate reading of the soil’s moisture levels.

4. Control Temperature

The Alocasia x amazonica is a tropical plant. So, cold is its arch nemesis. It thrives in a warm environment, similar to that of its native tropical Asian land.

Ideally, you want to place your plant somewhere with temperatures ranging between 65-80℉.

5. Provide Fertilizer

On average, you want to fertilize your Alocasia once every 2-4 weeks during its growth season using a balanced diluted mix.

Helpful tip: Apply the fertilizer when the soil is damp so as not to burn the roots. 

How to Grow Alocasia X Amazonica Plants?

On rare occasions, these plants can produce seeds that you can plant to grow more Alocasias.

Start by retrieving the seeds, which isn’t as simple as it sounds. You see, they sit inside hard-shelled containers called pods.

You have to wait for these pods to dry and change color, as that indicates the seeds have matured. When they dry out, they’ll curl downwards. You can retrieve the seeds then.

Soak them in water to clean them off, and plant them in nutrient-rich soil with a generous layer of peat moss. Keep it moist, but don’t soak it to avoid root rot.

When the seedlings start appearing, which usually takes 90 days, move the pot to a spot with bright, indirect sunlight.

If your Alocasia outgrows its pot, transfer it to a new one that’s one or two inches larger. You don’t want to go bigger than that because a large pot can retain too much water.

How to Repot Alocasia X Amazonica Plants?

Alocasia amazonica plants usually take one or two years to outgrow their pot, although some can take several years.

You can tell it’s time to change the container when the plant stops growing or when you notice yellow spots on the leaves. Generally, the best season to repot the plant is during summer and spring because that’s when it’s at its strongest.

Don’t worry. The repotting process is as straightforward as it gets. Here’s what to do:

• Fill one-third of the new pot with potting mix, press it gently, and then add water to help it settle.
• Remove the plant from the old pot and check the roots for discoloration or warping. If the roots are warping, separate them with your fingers.
• Put the plant in the new pot and fill the rest of it with soil.
• Water the soil until the clear liquid seeps out of the drainage holes, then return the pot to its original location.

Helpful tip: Avoid clay pots because they dry the soil out faster than plastic.

How to Care for Alocasia X Amazonica Plants in All Seasons?

Like humans, Alocasias’ needs differ from one season to another. So, you have to change your caring routine depending on the climate.

For example, alocasias need extra care during winter, as tropical plants can’t tolerate cold climates. So, keep it somewhere warm to save it from frost damage.

We’ve already established you need to water your plant as much as possible during spring. However, you don’t have to water it as often during winter, as that’s when it enters dormancy.

You wouldn’t want someone to pour water on you while you’re sleeping, would you?

The same thing goes for fertilizing. Avoid it during the dormancy period to avoid potential damage. You might also want to expose the plant to less light then.

Although repotting Alocasias is inherently beneficial, we recommend doing it exclusively during spring, as it’s the plant’s growth season. It’ll settle and grow quicker than any other time.

How to Propagate Alocasia X Amazonica Plants? 

Division is the most effective propagation method for Alocasias. Think of it as an artificial form of asexual reproduction.

Luckily, you don’t have to be a phytologist to propagate plants. Here’s how to do it:

• Take the plant out of the pot, then shake as much of the soil off as possible.
• Cut a few pieces of the roots with scissors. You want them to be thick and about 10 cm long.
• Mix one part perlite and two parts peat-free compost, then put them in a few trays.
• Put one root cutting in each tray, and wait two weeks for them to start growing.

Helpful tip: Make sure to sanitize your scissors with rubbing alcohol before cutting the roots to avoid spreading bacterial infections.

What Family Do Alocasia X Amazonica Plants Belong To?

The Alocasia x amazonica belongs to the Araceae family. With 140 Araceae types and more than 4,000 species, this species belongs to one of the largest plant families in the world.

Not every Araceae species has the same look. They might share a few similarities, but they’re not identical.

Most members of that family contain calcium oxalate in their leaves, which helps form those unique sharp leaves. It’s also what makes the Alocasias toxic.

Consuming them causes vesicle formation, edema, dysphagia, and extreme throat/mouth stinging.

How Long Do Alocasia X Amazonica Plants Live For?

There isn’t a definitive answer to that question, as it depends on the surrounding environment. If you provide an ideal growing environment that caters to your plant’s needs, it might last more than two years. Without proper care, though, it may not last one year.

What Are Common Pest and Plant Diseases for Alocasia X Amazonica Plants?

Most Alocasia plants are susceptible to the same diseases and pests. Let’s see what they are.

Pests

The most troublesome pest-related threat to Alocasia amazonica is spider mites. They’re hard to detect because they’re too small, but you can identify them through the leaf discoloration they cause.

You see, spider mites absorb the sap from the leaves, leaving white and yellow marks that turn brown over time.

If you suspect your Alocasia has been a victim of a spider mite infestation, take it to the shower and spray every inch of it with water.

Diseases

As we’ve already established, the Alocasia amazonica’s soil should stay moist. Unfortunately, that prompts some people to over-water them.

So, it’s no wonder root rot is the most common disease among these plants. Luckily, treating root rot isn’t as complicated as it sounds.

All you have to do is remove the plant from the soil and cut all the affected roots, leaves, and stems. Place it back in the pot, and you’re done.

How to Tell If Alocasia X Amazonica Plant Is Not Growing?

If your Alocasia isn’t growing despite providing it with water and fertilizer, there are two potential causes. The roots might be dying because they’re not receiving the necessary nutrients, or the plant has gone dormant.

In both cases, you should lift the plant from the soil and check the roots. If they’re black, mushy, and smelly, they’re rotten. Your plant is either dead or about to die.

However, if they look normal, your Alocasia has gone dormant and will start regrowing after a couple of months.

Are Alocasia X Amazonica Plants Poisonous?

Besides humans, the oxalate crystals in Alocasias’ leaves are also poisonous to dogs and cats. They can cause irritation in the mouth, vomiting, swelling in the upper airway, and tissue penetration.

How to Help Alocasia X Amazonica to Grow?

If you suspect your Alocasia might be dying, there are several signs you can look for to make sure. Droopy leaves, stunted growth, and yellow marks on the leaves are indications your houseplant isn’t receiving the necessary nutrients.

In that case, you might want to change your care routine. Focus on using well-draining soil that gives the roots enough room to breathe.

Keep it moist, but don’t soak it, and move the plant to a spot with bright, indirect light. Et voila! Problem solved!

Wrapping Up

Now, you know everything there is about the Alocasia x amazonica plants. Despite their unique look, they’re not that different from other tropical plants, at least not in their environmental requirements and propagation routine.

They’re even susceptible to the same pests and diseases. So, make sure you’re providing a warm, nutrient-rich environment, and you’ll have a healthy plant that offers incredible aesthetics.

The post How to Grow and Care for Alocasia X Amazonica (Amazonian Elephant’s Ear) Plants appeared first on Garden and Plant Care.

This superstar has simple demands: a bright spot away from direct sunlight, well-draining soil, warm temperatures, and a bi-weekly dose of fertilizer during the growing seasons.

You can have more Cuprea plants from seeds, but there are much easier ways to propagate it, like using corms and plant division.

What Are Alocasia Cuprea Plants?

Alocasia cuprea Red Secret is an evergreen plant native to the tropical jungles of Southeast Asia. It goes by a few nicknames, including Jewel Alocasia, Mirror Plant, and Elephant Ears, all highlighting its gorgeous foliage.

Alocasias are broad-leaved perennials from the Araceae family. The term “Cuprea” from its botanical name is Latin for “coppery,” a nod to this tropical stunner’s leaf color. But while some leaves are indeed coppery red, dark green is also a pretty common pigmentation.

The foliage is heart- or arrow-shaped, with a metallic sheen, pink undertones, and dramatic veining. The underleaf is wine-colored, a typical trait of understory tropical rainforest plants.

Each leaf sits atop a slender, pale green stalk called a petiole. The petiole connects perpendicularly to the leaf blade’s underside (peltate) and branches out from an underground corm.

As per the University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture, a corm is a bulbous section of the stem that doubles as a storage unit for plant food.

Red Secret makes for a fantastic houseplant with the proper care and conditions. When grown in a pot, this petite plant only reaches about 12–18 inches.

Quick Summary of Alocasia Cuprea Plants

Here’s your Red Alocasia at a glance:

• Scientific Name: Alocasia cuprea
• Common Name: Red Secret, Mirror Plant, Elephant Ears, and Jewel Alocasia
• Light: Bright, indirect light
• Watering: Top 2 inches of the potting soil to dry out between waterings
• Temperature: 50–85°F
• Hardiness: USDA zones 9–11
• Soil PH: 5.5 and 7
• Soil Type: Equal parts indoor potting mix, coco coir, and perlite
• Repotting: Every 2 years
• Pruning: Prune only the diseased or dead leaves
• Size: 12–18 inches
• Bloom Time: Late spring to early summer
• Propagation: Corm and plant division

How to Care for Alocasia Cuprea Plants

Alocasia cuprea is pretty low-maintenance once you’ve learned its growth habits. It’s perfect as an indoor plant, provided you give it filtered sunlight, a well-draining but moisture-retentive potting mix, high humidity, and regular feeding.

Consider this your Alocasia Red Secret care handbook:

Provide Sunlight

The almost iridescent, plastic-like leaves of cuprea Red Secret plants are an adaptation to their natural habitat.

Red Alocasias grow on forest floors beneath lush tree canopies, where only shreds of sunlight get through. They make the most of the limited light available by bouncing it between their glossy leaves.

If you want your houseplant to feel happy at home, give it a version of this dappled sunlight. Choose a well-lit area away from full sun. Somewhere near a north- or east-facing window is ideal, and if it’s too sunny, use curtains to diffuse the light.

Also, rotate the plant to ensure all the leaves get their fair share of sunshine. Direct sunlight can cause the leaves to lose their color and luster or, worse, get sunburned. Scorched leaves initially turn yellow and then brown and crisp.

If your plant looks spindly, it may be craving light, so move it to a brighter spot.

Mix Soil

The proper Alocasia cuprea Red Secret care starts with the soil, and the perfect potting mix is loose and chunky, so it’s almost impossible to overwater it.

You want the soil to stay moist while ensuring enough air and oxygen reach the roots. Excess water should drain freely to prevent root rot.

For a DIY blend, use equal parts of an indoor potting mix, perlite, and coco coir. This simple recipe should provide all your Red Secret’s needs.

Any good indoor potting mix is slightly acidic and nutritionally balanced. Perlite improves drainage and aeration, while coco coir adds superior water retention.

The good thing is that perlite and coco coir are both pH-neutral; they won’t alter the overall pH of your homemade mix.

Add Water

Alocasia cuprea plants like the soil moist, not soggy or bone-dry. The rule is to wait until the top 2 inches of the soil are dry before giving your Red Secret plant a drink.

Instead of sticking to a strict watering schedule, keep track of the actual moisture in the soil and water as needed.

Water the soil thoroughly, allow it to drain away, and discard any excess water from the saucer or dish beneath the pot. You may need to water more frequently in the summer and less during winter.

Forgetting to water your Red Secret now and then is forgivable, but drowning it in one go is a no-no. Remember, it’s easier to recover from underwatering than overwatering. The Wisconsin Horticulture says the latter can lead to fatal root rot in your houseplant. 

Control Temperature

Maintain a cozy environment for your Cuprea plant by ensuring temperatures stay within the 50–85°F range. Anything lower than 50°F can trigger dormancy.

According to Michigan State University, dormancy naturally happens in the winter months. As a response to shorter daylight, colder temperatures, and drier air, your Alocasia stops growing and even dies back to conserve energy.

In your home’s climate-controlled environment, your Alocasia cuprea should keep growing and never go dormant. So, protect it from drafts and sudden temperature swings that could stress it.

Also, keep your plant away from heaters, vents, and radiators to prevent it from drying out. Some telltale signs of temperature stress include leaf damage (yellowing, browning, or wilting) and stunted growth.

Red Secrets flourish in warm, humid climates. Your plant can handle the heat as long as the air is sufficiently moist.

Provide Fertilizer

Spring and summer are periods of active growth for your Alocasia cuprea. Give it a much-needed boost by fertilizing every two weeks.

Just dilute a balanced liquid fertilizer to half-strength and apply it to your houseplant. Don’t bother fertilizing in the winter when your plant is in snooze mode.

Feeding your little Red Secret is never a bad idea, but it’s crucial to do it right. You don’t want to overfertilize and “burn” your plant.

Mineral salts in the fertilizer can rob your plant of moisture and dehydrate it. So, avoid overfeeding and water your plant before and after fertilizing.

How to Grow Alocasia Cuprea Plants

Red Alocasias rarely produce blooms, especially those grown indoors. When they do, this only happens to mature plants primed for reproduction.

Wait around late spring and early summer, and if you spot your Alocasia cuprea flower, you can collect the seeds from the dry seed pods.

There are easier ways to propagate a Cuprea, but if you’re up for the challenge, follow this guide:

1. Prepare a starting mix using peat moss, coconut coir, perlite, and a bit of compost.
2. Fill a small pot with your mix and moisten it with a water spray.
3. Stick your Cuprea seed in the soil and cover the pot with plastic wrap to lock in moisture.
4. Place your pot in a bright spot, away from direct sunlight.
5. Keep the soil moist by misting it until that tiny sprout emerges.
6. Tend to your seedling as it develops and matures.

Note that your Red Secret seedling may take several years of consistent care to grow into a full-sized plant.

How to Repot Alocasia Cuprea Plants

Repotting your Alocasia cuprea Red Secret is part of its care routine. Generally, you must replant every 2 years or when your plant outgrows its current pot. Roots sticking out of drainage holes or creeping over the pot are just begging for more space.

Spring is a time for growth spurts, which is perfect for repotting. It gives the plant the best chance to recover from the stress of the whole ordeal.

To start, choose a new pot 2 inches bigger in diameter than the current container and prepare a fresh potting mix. Then, proceed as follows:

1. Tap the bottom of the pot and loosen the soil along the edges to ease the plant out. Tip the pot and tug the plant gently as it slides out.
2. Snip off any dead or damaged roots with clean, sharp scissors.
3. Spread a layer of potting mix on the bottom of the new pot and place your Alocasia cuprea in the center.
4. Fill around the roots with more potting mix and tamp it down gently as you go.
5. Water the repotted plant deeply. Let all excess water run off before returning the plant to its usual spot.

How to Care for Alocasia Cuprea Plants in All Seasons

Start fertilizing your Alocasia Red Secret in the spring, preferably every two weeks. If your plant looks crowded, transfer it to a slightly bigger home where it can spread its roots.

When summer knocks with its longer and warmer days, make sure the soil doesn’t dry out for too long. Water your Red Alocasia more frequently and continue feeding it.

As winter sets in, ease up on watering and hold off on the fertilizer. If natural light is scarce, use artificial light to keep it perked up.

How to Propagate Alocasia Cuprea Plants

There are two primary ways to propagate plants:

1. Corm Propagation

This method involves growing new plants from peanut-sized corms you’ll find attached to the roots. 

Collect as many corms as you can to ensure you have enough for successful propagation. Then, place them in a shallow plastic container and pour water up to the middle of the bulbs.

The bottom half should be submerged in water, leaving the other half exposed to air. This prevents the corms from rotting while encouraging root growth.

Cover the top of the container with the lid or cling wrap to trap warmth and moisture. Once the corms form roots, plant them in individual pots using fresh alocasia potting mix.

2. Plant Division

This technique involves separating baby plants, sometimes called offshoots and pups, from the parent plant.

Gently extract the plant from its pot and snip off the baby plants. Sturdy leaves and healthy roots are clear signs that the offshoot can survive on its own.

Replant the baby plants as usual and give them appropriate care.

What Family Do Alocasia Cuprea Plants Belong To?

Alocasia cuprea plants belong to the Araceae types from the tropics.

Interestingly, their “flowers” aren’t true flowers but modified leaves called spathes. The spathe is a colorful leaf-like blade that houses a single spiky bloom known as spadix.  

How Long Do Alocasia Cuprea Plants Live For?

Alocasia Red Secret is a slow grower. It can reach its full height between 5–8 years and live for another 10 years or so if you treat it right.

Of course, prolonged neglect and diseases can chip away at its lifespan. So, give your houseplant all the love it deserves, and you’ll have a green companion for a long time.

What Are Common Pest and Plant Diseases for Alocasia Cuprea Plants?

Common pests that enjoy bothering red Cuprea plants are spider mites, aphids, and mealybugs. These pesky critters feast on the plant’s sap, causing wilted, damaged leaves.

You can get rid of these pests easily using insecticidal soap or neem oil.

As for diseases, Alocasia cuprea can fall victim to fungal infections like root rot, leaf spot, and powdery mildew.

If you notice spots, lesions, and other types of leaf damage, isolate your plant at once. Remove the dying parts and replant the rest of the healthy plant in fresh potting mix in a sterile pot.

How to Tell If the Alocasia Cuprea Plant Is Not Growing

These signs will tell you that your Cuprea has stopped growing:

• Absence of new leaves or stems over an extended period
• Pale, lackluster leaves
• Unnaturally small plant

Are Alocasia Cuprea Plants Poisonous?

Alocasia cuprea plants can be toxic to our beloved dogs and cats if they decide to nibble on them. They contain tiny, needle-like irritants called calcium oxalate crystals.

These specks can pierce the soft tissues of the mouth and throat, causing burning pain and swelling.

Always keep your fur babies away from your red cuprea. If your pet is suddenly ill and you notice chewed parts on your plant, get them checked out by a vet right away.

How to Help Alocasia Cuprea Plant to Grow

Drooping leaves are usually the first sign something’s off with your houseplant. This problem can mean anything: overwatering, underwatering, insufficient light, fertilizer burn, pest infestation, or diseases.

To rescue your plant, check the soil to see if it’s soggy or dry and adjust your watering accordingly. Ensure it’s getting just the right amount of sunlight—not too much nor too little.

If your indoor air is too dry, use a humidifier. Watch out for any signs of pests or diseases and deal with them immediately.

Most importantly, be consistent in your care efforts to help your plant grow.

The post How to Grow and Care for All Types of Alocasia Cuprea (Red Secret) Plants appeared first on Garden and Plant Care.

Subsequently, your care routine should mimic its native humid environment. That includes providing partial shade, regular watering sessions, a well-draining potting mix, and occasional fertilizing.

What Are Alocasia longiloba Plants?

Alocasia longiloba, or tiger taro, belongs to the Araceae family. These tropical perennials make for exquisite houseplants.

The large pet plant is native to humid regions, including Central Malaysia, Borneo, and parts of China, like Guangdong, located near the southern edge of the country.

In terms of appearance, Alocasia longiloba leaves are distinctively arrow-shaped. They’re adorned with bright venation, particularly a prominent Y-shape at the center of each leaf.

There’s a Silver variation of tiger taro that offers a more frosted and cool-toned appearance compared to the original’s lush green foliage.

Size-wise, Alocasia longiloba can reach up to three feet in height and width after maturing, typically within five to ten years of growth. The houseplant’s leaves can extend between one and two feet.

Quick summary of Alocasia longiloba

• Scientific Name: Alocasia longiloba
• Common names: Tiger taro
• Light: Full and partial shade

• Watering: High to moderate water intake
• Temperature: 54° to 86°F
• Hardiness Zone: 9 to 12
• Soil pH: 5.5 to 7.5
• Soil Type: Loamy, moist, and well-drained soils
• Repotting: Every two years
• Pruning: Cut dying leaves and remove debris
• Size: 3 feet
• Bloom Time: Spring and summer
• Propagation: Seed and corm offset division

How to Care for Alocasia longiloba Plants

To maintain your Alocasia longiloba’s lush green foliage and sturdy, upright stance, here’s what you need to do.

Provide Sunlight

Alocasia longiloba prefers a stream of indirect light. You can filter the sun’s rays with a sheer curtain to lessen their intensity. Too much direct sunlight can potentially scorch your houseplant’s delicate leaves.

You’ll want to ensure your tiger taro plant gets at least six hours of filtered light. For this reason, place the pot in a west or east-facing window. Avoid south-facing windows because they tend to bring in too much heat.

If your tiger taro appears too leggy and can’t support its weight, you’re likely depriving it of enough sunlight—according to a growing guide from the University of Minnesota.

You can resort to artificial lighting fixtures if you live in an area with little to no sunlight. You’ll find LED and fluorescent options in the market. LEDs are typically more effective and versatile but tend to cost more. Meanwhile, fluorescent bulbs are cheaper but less energy-efficient.

Mix Soil

Tiger taro plants originally resided in rainforest settings. As such, they need moist and well-draining soil to ensure healthy growth.

You can purchase commercial houseplant soil mixes. Alternatively, you can create a mix of equal-part perlite, peat moss, and sand. Here’s how each ingredient helps your plant:

• Perlite is ideal for soil aeration and drainage, which will prevent future fungal issues.
• Peat moss’ main role is to maintain your soil’s pH. It also improves your potting mix’s moisture retention. 
• Coarse sand encourages water drainage and avoids waterlogging. 

Pro tip: You can tweak your ingredient amount depending on environmental factors.

For instance, if your home is particularly humid, you can reduce the peat moss intake and increase the pro-drainage components. On the other hand, a dryer landscape would call for extra peat moss.

Add Water

As a tropical plant, it’s only natural your tiger taro requires a generous hand during watering sessions. Nonetheless, you also need to balance the intake because excessive moisture can result in a waterlogged mess and fungal diseases like root rot.

There’s no strict watering schedule you need to follow. Factors like your environment’s humidity, container size, and plant size can impact the plant’s moisture requirements.

The best method to determine when you should water your tiger taro is to check the topsoil. If it’s dry, add water, and if it’s still wet, leave it.

According to the University of Maryland’s care guide for indoor plants, another ideal indicator is your houseplant’s container weight. Lift it, and if it’s too heavy or light, that could mean that your tiger taro is over or under-watered, respectively.

In terms of how you can water your tiger taro, the most common method is pouring from the top. The water should then trickle freely until it reaches the bottom soil layer. Alternatively, you can try bottom watering, where you place a water saucer under the houseplant’s pot.

It offers several benefits, like keeping pests at bay from wet topsoil and reducing foliage damage. That said, it’ll still need the occasional top watering to drain the excess salts from your soil.

Control Temperature

You’ll want to keep your Alocasia longiloba at temperatures between 54° and 86°F – but the arrow-shaped plant will thrive best in the 60° to 80°F range. Subsequently, you can keep your tiger taro outdoors during the summer months in a partially shaded area.

Once winter hits, you need to shelter the Alocasia plant indoors, especially when temperatures dip below 45°F.

Likewise, temperatures running above 90°F can be damaging to the houseplant’s leaves, turning them yellow.

Provide Fertilizer

Fertilizing an Alocasia longiloba is a necessary care routine step. You’ll need to feed it every two weeks during its growing season, which falls between spring and fall. During winter, you can lay off the feed for longer periods due to the plant’s dormancy.

Another fertilizer scheduling method you can apply is feeding the plant after every four watering sessions. Extend the feeding timing to every six watering sessions once winter and late fall come around.

As per Utah State University’s fertilizer management page, fertilizer ingredients like nitrogen and phosphorus are essential to your plant’s growth. Those nutrients help compensate for all the leaf loss, rather than encourage growth.

You can purchase a ready-made, commercial fertilizer for houseplants. Just be sure to dilute the formula with water to avoid burning the roots and causing yellowing leaves.

How to Grow Alocasia longiloba Plants

Luckily, growing a long-leaf Alocasia from a seedling is straightforward. Begin by planting your stem-cutting or seed in a well-draining soil.

Apply the same care methods you would a mature Alocasia by watering it when the topsoil is dry and keeping it in partial shade or a spot with indirect light. As it grows, you’ll notice signs that your young tiger taro needs to move to a bigger home.

Those signs can include roots sticking out from the pot’s drainage holes below. Plus, when watering, the houseplant seems to dry faster than usual. That’s because roots are taking up more space, leaving no opportunity for water retention.

When repotting the plant, you need to ensure it’s during spring or an active season so it’s at its strongest to handle the stress.

How to Repot Alocasia longiloba Plants

Alocasia longiloba houseplants typically take between one and two years to repot. The process involves the following steps:

1. Prepare a pot one size bigger than the original container.
2. Create a well-draining soil mixture for the pot’s base using perlite, peat, and pine bark.
3. Gently take out the Alocasia longiloba from its old container.
4. Examine its roots for any signs of rot or death. Prune off those affected.
5. Place the houseplant in its new pot at the center.
6. Pile the rest of the soil around it and keep it compact.

How to Care for Alocasia longiloba Plants In All Seasons

Seasonal changes can impact your Alocasia longiloba care routine. You’ll be more busy caring for the plant in active summer, spring, and early fall seasons. During then, you’ll need to water the plant and shovel in fertilizer more frequently.

When the first signs of winter appear, you can take a step back and ease up on the watering and fertilizing. Instead, prioritize a warm spot where your tiger taro can rest until its dormancy period ends.

How to Propagate Alocasia longiloba Plants

When you propagate plants like Alocasia longiloba, there are primarily two best methods: through stem cuttings or basal offset division.

With stem cuttings, you do as follows:

1. Search for a healthy stem in your tiger taro with some nodes and one leaf.
2. Use a pruning knife to cut it off from below the node.
3. Take out any leaves from the bottom section of the stem.
4. Plunge the lower part of the stem into a rooting hormone powder.
5. Plant the stem in a pot with well-draining soil.
6. You can cover the stem with a plastic bag or container to preserve humidity.

As for the basal division method, you’ll need to:

1. Remove the mother plant from its pot.
2. Push down on the chosen offset division until it snaps off.
3. Sort out the offset’s foliage and root system and plant it in a separate pot.

What Family Do Alocasia longiloba Plants Belong To?

Alocasia longiloba plants belong to the Araceae family. Araceae types distinguish themselves from other families with their bifacial leaves imprinted with netted or parallel venation.

The family also tends to have a spadix filled with small flowers and a spathe.

How Long Do Alocasia longiloba Plants Live For?

There’s no specific lifespan for an Alocasia longiloba. Indoor houseplants typically survive between one and three years. Nonetheless, some pet plants, with the right routine, can live up to 20 years.

Consequently, a tiger taro’s life expectancy rests on your shoulders. If you provide the right care and routinely observe the plant for any issues before they develop further, your tropical houseplant may age to be a decade old.

What Are Common Pest and Plant Diseases for Alocasia longiloba Plants?

Has your long-leaf Alocasia seen better days? You might notice its leaves yellowing, curling, drooping, or dropping. In these cases, it’s time for a check-up. 

In terms of pest problems, some of the most common culprits include spider mites, aphids, scales, and mealy bugs.

You can treat these parasites with a soap or insecticide-soaked cotton ball wipe all over the leaves.

As for plant diseases, Alocasia longiloba can be vulnerable to root rot, especially if you’re a little heavy-handed with the watering. 

The University of Wisconsin-Madison’s horticulture division advises you to reduce soil moisture, avoid over-watering, and not use soil from your garden since it can contain fungi—allowing the root rot to flourish.

How to Tell if Alocasia longiloba Plant Is Not Growing

You can tell your Alocasia longiloba isn’t growing from its leaves. Give them a careful inspection and look for signs of yellowing, discoloration, crispiness, or droopiness.

These symptoms will offer better insight into whether you’re over or underwatering the plant. 

You might also be giving it too much sunlight, leading to scorch marks. The plant may appear leggy from trying to reach for the sun as well. 

So, consider all these factors when assessing your tiger taro’s stunted growth.

Are Alocasia longiloba Plants Poisonous?

Alocasia longiloba plants are toxic to humans, cats, and dogs because of the presence of calcium oxalate. The compound can cause irritation and mouth and throat burns. For pets, ingesting large amounts of calcium oxalate can lead to kidney dysfunction. 

How to Help Alocasia longiloba Plant Grow

If your leaves are facing problems like drooping and discoloring, you need to act fast to keep your Alocasia longiloba thriving. That can involve treating signs of parasites through insecticide spray and quarantining new plants.

You’ll also want to consider repotting the houseplant if you notice signs of root rot, such as a rotten stench, mushy stems, and wilting leaves.

You can follow a strict care routine but still face some of these issues along the way. For this reason, keeping a regular eye on your tiger taro every week will help you prevent diseases and parasites from festering.

The post How to Grow and Care for All Types of Alocasia longiloba Plants appeared first on Garden and Plant Care.

Alocasia macrorrhiza needs a strict watering schedule, lots of partial sunlight, and the occasional scoop of fertilizer. You’re essentially trying to mimic the Alocasia plant’s native rainforest environment to ensure it flourishes in your living space.

What Are Alocasia Macrorrhiza Plants?

Alocasia macrorrhiza, or giant taro plants are part of the Araceae family, native to regions like Maritime Southeast Asia, Queensland, and New Guinea. These evergreen perennials can survive fairly well in both indoor and outdoor conditions. 

The rhizomatous plants are nicknamed elephant ears because of their uncanny resemblance to the animal’s large, flappy, and irregularly shaped ears.

The plant’s leaves are prominently thick and are traced with vein-like midribs. The leaves stiffly jut out of their upright stems. Elephant ear plants can tower as high as three to six feet while spreading around two to four feet wide.

As for the leaves, they can stretch to about three to four feet. 

Overall, their large size will offer a rainforest-like appeal in your living space.

Quick Summary of Alocasia Macrorrhiza

• Scientific Name: Alocasia macrorrhiza
• Common Name: Giant elephant’s ear, giant taro, giant alocasia
• Light: Full sun or partial shade
• Watering: Medium to wet

• Temperature: 55 to 85℉
• Hardiness Zone: 9 to 12
• Soil pH: 5.7 to 6.3 or acid to neutral
• Soil Type: Mixture of soil, perlite, and peat moss
• Repotting: Every two years
• Pruning: Cut the dying leaves and lingering plant debris
• Size: 12 to 15 inches tall and 6 to 10 inches wide
• Bloom Time: Late spring to early summer
• Propagation: Stem cuttings from mature plants, basal offset division, or seed

How to Care for Alocasia Macrorrhiza

Alocasia macrorrhiza plants have similar care routines as many other houseplants since they primarily hail from a tropical climate. 

Here’s what you need to consider to keep your giant taro happy and healthy:

Provide Sunlight

Giant taro plants need sufficient sunlight to thrive. Think of the plant’s native environment. As a plant growing in the rainforest, it survived off of slivers of light entering through the dense forest roof.

For this reason, elephant ears tend to prefer partial sunlight, which makes them an ideal choice for an indoor plant. You can place them in a window facing south, north, or east for the best results.

You don’t want to expose your giant taro houseplant to excessive sunlight. More than two hours of it can leave scorch marks on your lush green leaves. Plus, you’ll notice the leaves wilting and curling.

Too little sunlight can stunt the houseplant’s growth. Signs of insufficient lighting can show from the large leaves’ discoloration as well.

Now, if your home doesn’t have ideal sunlight conditions for your elephant ear plant, you can resort to artificial lighting options. 

According to the Royal Horticultural Society, red light stimulates flowering, while blue light encourages general growth.

Mix Soil

A mixture of perlite, peat moss, and potting soil offers a suitable base for your giant taro houseplant. These components are well-draining and will keep the potting mix aerated.

Since elephant ear plants are particularly thirsty, you need to create a soil mix that will balance water retention and drainage.

Otherwise, if the plant holds too much water, it’ll face issues like root rot. Meanwhile, if the water drains too easily, your plant won’t thrive as well as it should.

In addition to drainage, you also have to consider the soil’s pH level. With a pH meter, you’ll want to ensure that it falls between 5.7 and 6.3. Subsequently, it should be an acidic to neutral potting mix.

Soil pH is critical to your giant taro’s survival. As per Iowa State University’s studies from the Department of Horticulture, a soil’s pH impacts the availability of nutrients in the plant.

Add Water

Giant taro houseplants flourish best in moist soil. The plant typically requires around 0.8 cups of water every nine days. This amount applies to an Alocasia macrorrhiza planted in a five-inch container or pot.

As a general rule, you can check if your giant taro needs a drink by tapping its topsoil. If it’s dry, pour in some water.

Seasons will heavily affect your watering schedule. During the winter, you won’t need to water your giant taro as much. Once March rolls around, you can gradually increase your houseplant’s water intake.

Plus, watering should also depend on the plant’s condition. Monitor its giant leaves and observe any changes, such as wilting, discoloration, shriveling, or drooping, and water accordingly.

Control Temperature

As a tropical perennial, Alocasia macrorrhiza plants indulge in warm temperatures. They grow best in temperatures ranging between 55 and 85℉. During winter time, when the temperature may fall under 50℉, your giant taro will struggle to grow.

If you want to maintain warmth, you can use a healing mat or insulating pot. Besides that, ensure that your plant isn’t exposed to fluctuating temperatures.

For instance, you don’t want to place it next to the AC or heater. Try to also keep it far from your door, which can bring in a cold draft. 

Additionally, when temperatures are low, you’ll want to avoid repotting your giant taro and cut back on the fertilizer and watering sessions.

If you keep your houseplant outside for summer and need to move it in, be cautious. The Johnson K State Research and Extension advises you to be wary of the many living organisms that could be attached to your plant, such as snails, slugs, and spiders.

Provide Fertilizer

While soil may provide essential nutrients to your giant taro, it can’t be its only source. So, your tropical houseplant will need fertilizer, especially during its growth seasons, summer, spring, and early fall. 

You’ll want to feed your giant taro fertilizer every two to four weeks during these seasons. The additional nutrients will keep the elephant ear plants’ stems and roots rigid while retaining your large leaves’ lush green shade.

You can use a fertilizer with an N-P-K or Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium ratio of 3-1-2. Alternatively, you can administer a diluted houseplant fertilizer biweekly.

The Alocasia species will benefit from the nutrients, but over-fertilizing can lead to root burn, so be cautious with the portions.

How to Grow Alocasia Macrorrhiza Plants

You can grow giant Alocasia houseplants from ramets or seeds. Seeds will take a longer time to germinate. 

To get ramets, you’ll need to extract them from a mother plant that is around two to three years old. Ramets must be taken during the spring since it’s an active season for the houseplant. 

After acquiring your ramets or seeds, plant them in the recommended potting mix and water them regularly.

Make sure the seedling is provided with ample sunlight as well. As the plant grows, you’ll need to repot it to accommodate for the larger root size and avoid pot-bounding.

You can move it to a new, larger pot every year until it has matured. After that, repot every two to three years.

How to Repot Alocasia Macrorrhiza Plants

Before touching your Alocasia macrorrhiza houseplant for a repotting, make sure it’s spring when it’s at its fittest for recovery.

1. Prepare a pot one size larger than the previous one.
2. Add about three scoops of potting mix to it.
3. Remove the giant alocasia from its old pot, ensuring that it was watered a day before.
4. Take out the soil attached to the houseplant, exposing the root system.
5. Place the giant taro in its new pot.
6. Fill the remainder of the new pot with perlite, peat moss, and additional soil mix.
7. Shake it every few scoops to ensure the soil goes all the way down.
8. Press down around the stems for a compact finish.

How to Care for Alocasia Macrorrhiza in All Seasons

During its growing season, you can follow the standard care routine for your giant Alocasia. This means regular watering sessions, using fertilizer, and providing enough sunlight.

As for the wintertime, your houseplant will be dormant since there’s little sunlight and temperatures drop. Consequently, you won’t need to fertilize it. Instead, keep it indoors and warm. Plus, you’ll want to reduce the plant’s water intake.

How to Propagate Alocasia Macrorrhiza Plants

The best means to propagate plants like your elephant ear is through stem cuttings, basal division, and seeds. According to Missouri State University’s Plant Sciences & Technology department, basal division is the easiest method.

To do so, uproot your giant taro plant and check for available tubers. Then, extract and plant them separately.

What Family Do Alocasia Macrorrhiza Plants Belong To?

The Alocasia macrorrhiza plant belongs to the Araceae family. 

Plants from that family have a unique inflorescence or a group of flowers arranged in a certain pattern on a stem. 

In the Alocasia’s case, its inflorescence is composed of a flower spadix or spathe, sheathed by bracts. Both are usually a mixture of white, yellow, and green.

Aside from that, every seed produced by an Arum family plant holds a single embryonic seed leaf. Their leaves are also distinctively reticule and hold calcium oxalate.

How Long Do Alocasia Macrorrhiza Plants Live For?

Not much is known about Alocasia macrorrhiza’s lifespan. While it can survive for several years, that primarily depends on environmental conditions. For instance, pests, disease, and improper care can take away years from the houseplant’s life. 

Other factors, like the plant’s propagation method, can also impact its lifespan. If you propagated your giant taro using a basal division, chances are it’ll inherit a similar life expectancy as its mother plant.

What Are Common Pest and Plant Diseases for Alocasia Macrorrhiza Plants?

Giant taro plants can be vulnerable to certain pests and diseases. In terms of pests, you’ll want to be wary of aphids, spider mites, and mealy bugs. 

These parasites have an appetite for your tropical houseplant. They typically suck on an Alocasia macrorrhiza’s sap, leaving lesions on the plant’s leaves.

You can deal with these infestations by wiping a cotton ball soaked in alcohol over the foliage. Alternatively, spraying the plant with soapy water and neem oil can also help.

Prevention involves quarantining new houseplants, in case of infection.

As for disease, elephant ear plants may develop root rot, leaf spot, botrytis, Xanthomonas, rust, and powdery mildew. Most symptoms of these diseases include leaf discoloration, lesions, and spotting.

Fungal-based diseases typically result from overwatering your plant or exposing it to an overly humid environment. In this case, you’ll want to repot your plant to control the infection and ensure you use sterilized potting soil.

How to Tell If Alocasia Macrorrhiza Plant Is Not Growing

You can tell your Alocasia plant isn’t growing from signs like droopy, spotty, or discolored leaves. These issues usually come from improper watering.

Not watering enough or overwatering your giant Alocasia can stunt its growth. On the other hand, your plant may be growing but appears leggy and weak. It’s usually a sign of low sun exposure.

Are Alocasia Macrorrhiza Plants Poisonous?

Alocasia macrorrhiza plants can be toxic to dogs, cats, and humans. It contains oxalic acid and asparagine protein compounds that can cause poisonous effects.

When ingested, you can experience vomiting, burning in your mouth and throat, swelling of the mouth and eyes, or diarrhea.

For this reason, you’ll want to keep your giant taro houseplant far from your children’s or pets’ reach.

How to Help Alocasia Macrorrhiza Plants Grow

Overall, keeping your Alocasia houseplant alive and thriving depends on lots of observation and care. You’ll want to watch for early signs of common problems, such as drooping leaves.

Floppy leaves are usually a sign of over or under-saturated potting soil. Subsequently, most of your attention should be on your giant taro’s watering schedule to ensure healthy growth.

The post How to Grow and Care for All Types of Alocasia Macrorrhiza (Giant Taro) appeared first on Garden and Plant Care.

Fast-growing alocasias favor the warmth and humidity of their native rainforest habitats. The best way to care for them would be to provide lots of filtered sunlight, consistently moist, fertile, well-draining soil, high humidity levels, and temperatures between 65° and 85°F.

Alocasia plants are grown for their stunning and sizable foliage, with leaves that can measure up to 3 feet long. They have slender and sturdy stems growing from hidden rhizomes. These plants rarely flower, but when they do, expect creamy white blooms and bright red berries. 

Discover everything you need to know about Alocasia plants, including how to successfully grow and care for them, in this in-depth guide.

What Are Alocasia Plants?

Alocasia (Alocasia spp.), commonly known as elephant’s ear, is a group of broad-leaved, herbaceous perennial plants native to the tropical regions of Asia and Eastern Australia. There are 80 recognized species of Alocasia plants, and they belong to the Arum or Araceae family.

These plants can grow up to 6 to 8 feet tall or even higher in their native habitats. Alocasias are known for their bold, huge, arrow-shaped leaves with variously colored veins. They grow from an underground rhizome, bloom green and white flowers, and bear red to orange berry-like fruit.

Because of their exotic beauty and minimal care requirements, Alocasias are usually grown as houseplants, but they can also thrive outdoors during the warmer months. All parts of the plant contain calcium oxalate crystals, which are toxic to humans and pets, so caution is needed.

How to Care for Alocasia Plants?

You can care for an Alocasia by providing plenty of bright shade or dappled sunlight from a window, using high-quality, nutrient-rich potting mix, watering to keep the soil evenly moist, avoiding temperature drops below 60°F, and fertilizing monthly during the growing season.

Caring for Alocasia plants can be tricky, depending on the variety you have. However, with the right growing conditions, they can thrive as exotic-looking tropical houseplants with eye-catching foliage that will surely liven up your home.

Here’s a detailed Alocasia care guide to help you keep your plants healthy and happy:

Provide Sunlight

Like most tropical plants, light requirements for Alocasia include lots of bright indirect light, preferably from an east or west-facing window. If you want to bring your plant outdoors during the warmer months, place it in a spot that receives partial shade or dappled sunshine.

For homes and rooms that don’t receive enough light, you can always use artificial grow lights to supplement your Alocasia’s needs. Be careful not to overdo it, though, as too much sun exposure can scorch your plant’s leaves and result in crispy, brown edges or spots.

Some Alocasia species are more shade tolerant than others. The ones that require more light to survive typically have lighter or colorful leaves, like Alocasia amazonica. Your plant may be able to tolerate a spot that’s too shady, but it may exhibit slow growth and little to no new leaves.

One good tip is to ask your Alocasia grower or seller about the amount of sunlight needed by your plant or check the plant label. Signs that an Alocasia isn’t receiving enough light are yellow, pale, drooping, or unusually small leaves, leggy or leaning stems, and stunted growth.

Mix Soil

Alocasia plants prefer slightly acidic soil. It needs to be nutrient-rich, loose, and well-draining while at the same time retaining enough moisture to keep your plant hydrated. It should also be aerated, with plenty of oxygen for the roots. A standard peat-based potting mix is a great option.

You can also use high-quality all-purpose potting mix from a garden center or just mix your own soil for Alocasia. A good soil recipe to try would be 1 part potting mix, 1 part orchid bark, 1 part coco coir, and ¼ part perlite. You can also include worm castings or compost for more nutrients.

Alocasia plants don’t do well in clay soil or standing water. So, if your soil lacks drainage, consider adding amendments like peat moss, perlite, vermiculite, orchid bark, or coco coir. You can also raise the soil pH by adding limestone powder or lower it by adding aluminum sulfate.

Check the soil moisture every 1 to 4 days, depending on the season. You can feel for dampness using your finger or use a moisture meter for accuracy. Ensure that your planters or pots have adequate drainage holes, and see to it that water doesn’t pool at the bottom of the container.

Add Water

Knowing when to water Alocasia is crucial, as dry or soggy soil can cause plant stress and, in severe cases, even death. A good rule of thumb is to water your plant when the top 2 to 3 inches of its soil are dry to the touch. This means your watering frequency may vary per season.

When watering, thoroughly soak your Alocasia and allow the water to flow into its pot and come out of the drainage hole. To prevent root rot and other fungal infections, remove any standing water in the saucer under the pot and wait for the top inches to dry before watering again.

Alocasias grow fast in the summer, but they become dormant in the winter, which is when you should reduce watering. Did you know that these plants are highly sensitive to chlorine, chemicals, and minerals present in tap water? This can cause them to develop leaf spots.

If possible, water your plant using distilled or filtered water. Another option is to let your tap water sit overnight in a bucket or watering can before using it to allow unwanted chemicals to evaporate. Alocasias aren’t drought tolerant, and a lack of water will cause foliage to turn brown.

Control Temperature

Most Alocasia species require temperatures between 65° to 85°F. They prefer greenhouse-like conditions that mimic their native habitats, which are tropical rainforests, humid lowlands, and jungles in Asia and Australia. Alocasia hardiness zones are 10 to 12 (USDA).

Keep your plant away from windows, doors, and air conditioners, as they’re sensitive to cool drafts. You can move your Alocasia outdoors when the weather is warm but don’t forget to bring it back before the temperatures drop below 60°F, as these plants don’t tolerate frost.

As tropical plants, Alocasias thrive in humid conditions, around 50% humidity level or higher is best. Using a humidifier, regularly misting Alocasia leaves, and positioning your plant in the kitchen, laundry room, or steamy bathroom can help keep it happy with the humidity. 

One trick to increase humidity for your plant is to put it on a tray filled with pebbles, then pour water until it reaches just below the bottom of the pot. Watch out for discoloration, drooping or wilting leaves, and stunted growth, as these are signs of temperature stress in Alocasias.

Provide Fertilizer

Feed your Alocasia with a liquid houseplant fertilizer 1 to 2 times a month during its growing season in the spring and summer. This extra dose of nutrients will ensure strong roots and healthy foliage. During the warmer months, your plant may produce a new leaf every week.

The best fertilizer for Alocasia would be a general-purpose mix with a 20-20-20 formulation of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus. Nitrogen encourages photosynthesis and promotes the speedy growth of roots and foliage. Potassium increases plant immunity and drought tolerance.

Phosphorus is essential to root development and helps convert plant nutrients into usable forms. Your Alocasia will also need other nutrients, like Calcium, Magnesium, Hydrogen, Oxygen, Sulfur, and Carbon. You can use commercial fertilizers specifically for Alocasias.

Choose a slow-release fertilizer or dilute liquid fertilizer to half-strength to lessen the risk of leaf burn. Leaf discoloration and burnt brown tips are signs of over-fertilization, so if you spot those, ease up on the feeding. Meanwhile, lackluster growth may be a sign of under-fertilization.

You can press pause on fertilizing your plant in the fall and winter seasons when your Alocasia goes dormant. Resume feeding when your Alocasia comes back to life in the springtime.

How to Grow Alocasia Plants?

Alocasia plants are easy and quick to propagate by root or rhizome division, which is what most gardeners usually do. Growing Alocasia from seeds is a more time-consuming process, but it’s still possible as long as you provide the right growing conditions for your plant.

To grow an Alocasia, harvest ripe seeds from a mature plant or purchase them from a reputable producer or local nursery. Sow the seeds on the surface of high-quality potting mix in a container with holes, and sprinkle the mix on top. Keep it moist until the seeds start to sprout.

According to NC State Extension’s Plant Toolbox, it can take up to 600 days for Alocasias to mature into full-sized plants. But, if you’re willing to wait, your efforts will eventually be rewarded in the form of vibrant evergreen foliage and the sight of Alocasia’s vast and magnificent leaves.

Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to grow Alocasia plants from tiny seeds to towering tropical giants:

1. Prepare Your Alocasia Seeds

If you have a mature Alocasia that has recently flowered and produced hard seed pods, you can harvest its seeds as soon as the pods have dried out and changed color. Gently split open the pods. Most varieties bear reddish berries, which you can pick and squeeze to collect seeds.

Use gloves when handling the Alocasia, as its berries and seeds can irritate bare skin. Clean the seeds by rinsing them under running water or using a paper towel. You can also get high-quality seeds from a local nursery or garden center. Read the seed packets before buying. 

2. Sow and Sustain the Seeds

The next step is to sow your clean Alocasia seeds in moist, loose, high-quality potting mix. Spread the seeds in a clay pot, seed starting tray, or container with adequate drainage holes. Sprinkle a thin layer of potting mix on top so that the seeds are at a depth of about ¼ inch. 

Lightly tamp down the potting mix, and spray a bit of water on your newly planted seeds. Other growers choose to soak the seed overnight before planting them, but this isn’t necessary. Just keep the potting mix damp for the first few weeks through regular misting or spraying.

Pick a spot with lots of bright indirect sunlight for your Alocasia seeds. Most tropical plants, including Alocasia, need warm temperatures ranging from 70° to 85°F to germinate well. Note that it can take up to 90 days for seedlings and first sprouts to appear.

3. Transfer Into Bigger Containers

You can transplant your Alocasia seedlings into small individual pots when their first true leaves appear. If you dig them up and move them to another pot, be careful not to disturb their root systems to avoid stressing the plants. It may take a few weeks for them to establish themselves.

Water the seedlings before and after transplanting. As your Alocasia plants grow, you’ll need to transfer them to progressively larger pots. Alocasias prefer being slightly pot-bound, so wait until their roots are pushing through their drainage holes or at the soil surface before transferring.

When changing pot sizes, choose a new pot, preferably made of nonporous plastic or ceramic, that’s 1 to 2 inches wider in diameter and slightly deeper than your original pot. Don’t forget to check for root rot every time you transfer Alocasia plants into bigger containers.

How to Repot Alocasia Plants?

Small tabletop varieties of Alocasia plants need repotting every 12 to 18 months, while larger floor plants can be repotted every 18 to 24 months. Depending on how fast your Alocasia grows, you’ll need a new pot that’s 1 to 4 inches larger in diameter than the previous one.

Avoid repotting Alocasia in a container that’s too large, as it could drown the plant’s root system. The best time to repot an Alocasia is when it begins its active growing season in the spring. 

Follow these simple steps on how to properly repot Alocasia plants:

1. Check Your Alocasia’s Roots

Alocasias actually prefer growing under slightly cramped conditions, but you’ll know that it’s time to repot when your plant’s roots become visible on the soil surface or the pot’s drainage holes. Use gloves while handling your Alocasia, and wash your hands when you’re done.

If you observe that your Alocasia plant doesn’t need repotting yet, you can still opt to replenish the plant with fresh soil and return it to the same container. Prepare your Alocasia by watering it one hour before repotting to hydrate its leaves and reduce the risk of damaging fragile roots. 

2. Remove Your Alocasia from the Old Pot

Gently slide your Alocasia out of its previous pot. If it’s stuck, turn the pot sideways or upside down, and lightly tap the sides or bottom of the old pot to loosen up the soil. Remove excess soil around the plant, being careful not to disturb the root system.

Inspect the roots to make sure that they’re white, firm, and healthy, and trim away damaged, dark, and mushy roots with sterilized scissors or a clean, sharp knife. Additionally, check for pest infestations that can damage your plant.

3. Place Your Alocasia in the New Pot

Right after removing, carefully place your Alocasia in a clean and slightly bigger pot filled with a fresh layer of potting soil. Plant it at the same depth as its original pot, and back fill with soil to fully cover the root ball. Gently firm up the soil to collapse air pockets and water your plant well.

When choosing pots for your Alocasia, go for glazed ceramic or nonporous plastic pots, as they can keep the soil moisture even. Clay pots have an advantage as well, as they allow good airflow through the soil, and their heavy weight gives a large Alocasia extra stability.

In addition to repotting, you should rotate your Alocasia periodically to ensure even growth on all sides. Prune away any dead or discolored foliage with a clean knife or pruners. Clean the leaves as well to prevent dust build-up and enable your plant to photosynthesize efficiently. 

What Are the Types of Alocasia Plants? 

The most common and well-known types of Alocasia plants are Alocasia black velvet, Alocasia polly (Alocasia amazonica), Alocasia odora, Alocasia zebrina, Alocasia cuprea, Alocasia cucullata, Alocasia micholitziana, Alocasia longiloba (Tiger Taro), and Alocasia macrorrhiza.

According to North Carolina State University’s Plant Toolbox, there are 80 recognized species of Alocasia plants. More hybrids and new cultivars are being discovered each day, so there’s an ever growing number of Alocasia colors, sizes, leaf shapes, and variegations to choose from.

Pick the perfect Alocasia for your garden or home by browsing through the various types below: 

Alocasia black velvet

Alocasia reginula, also known as “black velvet” and “little queen,” is a stunning variety with dark green foliage that almost looks black, paired with bright white veins, and a dwarf size at around 1 to 2 feet tall. Its broad, heart-shaped, and sun-loving leaves have a rich, velvety texture.

Compared to other Alocasia species, Alocasia black velvet is slow-growing and stays small, making it perfect for indoor spaces. This evergreen plant is native to Southeast Asia and does best in locations that mimic the warm, bright, and humid conditions of the tropics. 

Alocasia polly (Alocasia amazonica)

Alocasia polly features wavy-edged, dark green leaves, creamy white veins, and maroon undersides. It measures 2 feet in both height and width. Its large, waxy, arrowhead-shaped leaves can grow as long as 16 inches. Each of them protrudes from a long, single stem.

This type of Alocasia can grow small, pale white flowers in the wild, but it’s mainly prized for its unique foliage as a houseplant. African mask plant, African shield, and Amazonian elephant ear are other common names for this plant. Alocasia polly can survive year-round indoors.

Alocasia odora

Alocasia odora also goes by the names Asian taro, giant upright elephant ear, and night-scented lily. Under the right conditions, this species can grow between 6 to 8 feet tall, with large, diamond-shaped leaves that resemble teardrops and reach 2 feet long at maturity. 

This Alocasia is indigenous to Japan, China, Taiwan, and other parts of East and Southeast Asia. Its leaves and stems are often used in Asian cuisine, including soups and stir-fried dishes. It got its name, odora, from its flowers that produce a sweet, strong fragrance at night.

Alocasia zebrina

The leggy and zebra-striped stems of Alocasia zebrina are one of the plant’s defining features. It’s one of the most well-known varieties of Alocasia due to its distinctive look. It usually grows to 3 feet tall and is accompanied by elongated, glossy green leaves with no prominent veining.

Alocasia zebrina bears orange fruits and sometimes produces flowers in pairs. It originates from the tropical rainforests of Southeast Asia, particularly the Philippines. This type of Alocasia is a fast grower, but it can be a bit difficult to care for since it’s quite picky about growing conditions.

Alocasia cuprea

Alocasia cuprea, or “red secret,” stands at around 3 feet and is an elegant addition to any home or garden with its metallic foliage that combines the colors red, plum, and dark green. It features stiff and velvety leaves that reach up to 2 feet long, with a deep purple underside. 

This species is native to the jungles of Borneo, and most houseplant enthusiasts consider it a rare and valuable variety of Alocasia. It got its name, cuprea, from the coppery appearance of its leaves, which is uncommon in Alocasia plants. Once mature, its leaves turn dark green.

Alocasia cucullata

Wide, heart-shaped, vibrant green leaves, thick, erect stems, rare bluish-green flowers, and occasional red berries characterize the Alocasia cucullata plant. This clumping species can grow up to 3 feet tall, while its glossy leaves measure 1 foot or more.

This Alocasia is native to Southeast Asia, and it thrives in tropical or subtropical climates. Other names for Alocasia cucullata include hooded dwarf elephant ear, Chinese Taro, Chinese ape, and even Buddha’s hand because of its special shape that resembles a palm. 

In some cultures, this plant is believed to bring good fortune and is often kept in temples.

Alocasia micholitziana

Alocasia micholitziana, also known as “Frydek” and “green velvet,” is famous for its striking, emerald foliage, sharp, white veins, and iconic arrowhead shape. Its leaves have a soft, velvet texture and reach 18 inches long, making it a sought-after centerpiece in many homes.

This type of Alocasia usually produces 4 to 7 leaves, with leafstalks that are mottled brown, reddish, or purple in color. It can also bear up to 4 cream and green colored flowers. Alocasia micholitziana is native to the Philippines, where it grows in shady and damp lowland forests.

Alocasia longiloba (Tiger Taro)

Alocasia longiloba is usually called “tiger taro” because of the prominent white or silver veins on its deep grayish-green leaves. As its name suggests, this plant has long arrowhead or V-shaped foliage with a purple underside, and its leaves sit on mottled chocolate-brown stalks.

This variety of Alocasia grows to around 3 to 4 feet tall outdoors in warm climates. As an indoor plant, it may be a little shorter. Alocasia longiloba rarely flowers, but when it does, its blooms are similar to a peace lily, with a white or green spathe. It bears tiny round orange fruits as well.

Alocasia macrorrhiza

Also known as “giant taro,” Alocasia macrorrhiza is one of the largest species of Alocasia that you can grow as a houseplant. Because of its size, it’s also commonly found in gardens. This Alocasia reaches up to 15 feet in height, with enormous leaves measuring 3 to 4 feet long. 

Unlike the foliage of other varieties, Alocasia macrorrhiza’s thick, glossy lime-green leaves point skywards, and they’re held upright by thick, sturdy stalks. Its rhizomes are edible after cooking, which is why this Alocasia is widely cultivated in the tropics as a potato-like substitute.

What Are the Characteristics of Alocasia Plants?

Alocasia plants are famous for their massive and magnificent leaves, resembling elephant ears, that come in a variety of colors, patterns, and textures. Most of them also have slender stems, green and white flowers, red and orange fruits, and underground rhizomes.

These plants are herbaceous perennials that belong to the Araceae family and are native to the tropical regions of Asia and Australia. They thrive in warm, moist, and humid environments similar to their natural habitat. Learn more interesting Alocasia plant characteristics below:

Alocasia Leaves

The most recognizable feature of Alocasia plants is their large, lush, and vibrant arrow-shaped or heart-shaped leaves that can reach up to 3 feet long. Their colors can range from deep green to silvery, metallic, or even purple, with glossy, matte, or velvety finishes.

Alocasias can have a solid green color, or they can be variegated, with white or silvery streaks, stripes, or bordered leaf patterns. Alocasia leaves aren’t just attractive, they’re functional, too. They serve as natural umbrellas, as they capture and funnel rainwater toward the plant roots.

Alocasia Stems, Fruits, and Flowers

These plants have long and sturdy stems, which can be plain or patterned, like the Alocasia zebrina, which has black and brown striped stems. Alocasias grow from underground rhizomes, which you can divide to create new plants. Growing Alocasias from seeds is also possible.

Alocasias aren’t showy, but they’re capable of producing lovely cream-colored flowers under the right conditions. Blooms have a green spadix and white spathe, similar to peace lily flowers. They also bear small, fleshy, berry-like fruits, which are often bright orange or reddish in color.

Alocasia Sizes

The foliage of an Alocasia can spread as wide as 1 to 4 feet as houseplants and 2 to 10 feet when grown outdoors, depending on the species. When it comes to height, small and medium varieties of Alocasia reach 1 to 3 feet, while large varieties grow as tall as 4 to 6 feet.

In their native tropical habitats, Alocasia plants tower as high as 8 to 15 feet. 

Alocasia Uses and Benefits

Alocasias are prized for their massive size and magnificent foliage that add exotic beauty to any home or garden. As such, they’re primarily grown as potted houseplants or ornamental plants in beds and borders. Plant enthusiasts also delight in collecting diverse-looking Alocasia cultivars.

Like many other houseplants, Alocasia plants help improve indoor air quality by absorbing carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen. Their leaves filter out harmful air pollutants as well. 

In some cultures, Alocasias are considered symbols of luck and are used in rituals and traditions. The stems and corms of some varieties can be eaten after being completely cooked to destroy the toxic calcium oxalate crystals, according to NC State Extension.

How to Propagate Alocasia Plants

Root or rhizome division is an easy and simple way to propagate plants like Alocasia. This task is best done in the spring or early summer when plants are in their active growing season, as it results in faster root development for your new Alocasias.

1. Carefully dig your Alocasia out of its pot using a trowel, shake off the excess soil, and select sections of the rhizome with their own root clumps to divide.

2. Gently tease the roots apart to separate new sections from the mother plant, but leave the root system of each section intact.

3. Cut off chunks of the rhizome with clean pruners or a sharp knife and place them in individual pots with high-quality moist potting mix. 

4. Plant the new rhizomes at the same depth as the mother plant and use similar-sized or slightly smaller pots. 

5. Water your new Alocasias. Keep the pots in a warm location and ensure that the soil stays moist until new sprouts and leaves start to appear in a few weeks.

What Family Do Alocasia Plants Belong to?

Alocasia plants are herbaceous perennials that belong to the Araceae family, according to the University of Georgia’s College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences. They’re native to the tropical regions of Asia and Australia, where sunshine and rainfall are plentiful.

These fast-growing plants are renowned for their big, beautiful foliage, specifically their heart or arrow-shaped leaves that resemble an “elephant’s ear.” Alocasias grow from tubers under the soil. They rarely ever flower, but their blooms are creamy white in color.

Alocasias can have solid or variegated leaves, with shades ranging from gray, green, and silver to maroon and even white. Some varieties have smooth and glossy leaf textures, while others can be velvety.

In warm and humid zones that mimic their natural habitat, Alocasias are a garden favorite. However, there are also many indoor Alocasia varieties that are grown as exotic houseplants. You can grow your potted Alocasias outdoors in the summer and bring them inside in the winter.

How Long Do Alocasia Plants Live for?

An average Alocasia houseplant can live for 3 to 5 years, but with the right care and conditions, Alocasias can survive for up to 15 years or more. Some varieties, like Alocasia macrorrhiza, can thrive for 25 years, developing extensive root systems and taller stems.

Factors that impact Alocasia lifespan include the availability of nutrients, optimal temperature, lighting conditions, and the abundance of water. Droughts, cold seasons, diseases, and competition with other plants can shorten the life of an Alocasia.

The life stages of an Alocasia include seed, small juvenile with 1 to 3 leaves, large juvenile with 4 leaves, and mature Alocasia with over 4 leaves and reproductive capability. 

Many plants experience a rest period every year as part of their natural life cycle. This includes Alocasias, which can go completely dormant, says NC State University.

What Are Common Pest and Plant Diseases for Alocasia Plants?

Alocasia plants are generally hardy and healthy, with no major pest problems to worry about, according to the University of Florida’s Environmental Horticulture Department. 

However, there are a few Alocasia diseases and infestations that can affect the well-being of your plant, such as:

• Spider Mites: Dusty-looking leaves, fine white webbing, and tiny brown holes are the telltale signs of a spider mite infestation. 
• Mealybugs: Mealybugs are small sap-sucking insects with white and waxy bodies that infect your Alocasia by sticking and feeding on it.
• Root Rot: A root-damaging disease caused by soggy soil, poor drainage, or soil fungi.
• Leaf Spot: A fungal infection characterized by irregular yellow or brown spots, dying foliage, and falling leaves.

You can protect your plant from infestations by wiping its leaves regularly, avoiding overwatering, and using insecticidal soap or neem oil to get rid of pests. To prevent root rot and leaf blight, ensure proper air circulation and always plant in clean, well-draining soil.

How to Tell if an Alocasia Plant Is Not Growing?

You can tell if an Alocasia plant is not growing by looking at its height and the spread of its leaves. Small leaf sizes, thin and leggy stems, no new leaves, and no increase in height and width are a few indicators of poor plant growth.

Alocasia growth rates vary depending on species, but most of them are fast growers. They can reach 8 to 10 feet in height, with leaves up to 3 feet long, according to the University of Illinois. In the summer, these plants may even sprout a new leaf each week! 

Outdoor Alocasias get taller and larger more rapidly than indoor Alocasias. They grow at a rate of 3 to 5 feet per year, while potted Alocasias only grow 1 to 2 feet each year. 

You might notice your plant stop growing or become dormant in the winter. Its leaves can shrivel and die when temperatures drop, which is normal for Alocasia plants. 

Are Alocasia Plants Poisonous?

Yes, Alocasia plants contain calcium oxalate crystals that are poisonous to both people and pets when swallowed or chewed on, according to the National Capital Poison Center.

For humans, harmful side effects of ingesting any part of the plant include irritation of the lips, mouth, tongue, and throat, mouth ulcers, and difficulty swallowing. Other symptoms of Alocasia plant poisoning include stomach pain, diarrhea, nausea, and vomiting. 

First aid for exposure to Alocasia includes wiping your mouth, rinsing with water to remove plant material, sucking on ice chips for pain relief, and staying hydrated in cases of vomiting.

The Animal Poison Control Center warns that Alocasia is toxic to dogs, cats, and horses. Symptoms for pets include oral irritation, excess drooling, difficulty swallowing, vomiting, and pain and swelling of the mouth, tongue, and lip area.

If your pet has accidentally consumed Alocasia, contact your veterinarian immediately or call the animal poison control hotline. Flush and rinse your pet’s mouth with water and monitor carefully for signs of swelling, stomach upset, or dehydration.

How to Help an Alocasia Plant Grow?

Signs that your Alocasia is struggling to survive include wilting, drooping, curling, yellowing, or browning leaves. You may also observe distorted growth, spindly stems, brown or black spots, pest infestations, and mushy or damaged roots in a suffering plant.

The best way to help and revive a dying Alocasia houseplant is to address the root cause of the problem and ensure that all of your plant’s basic needs are being adequately met.

For instance, if your plant has drooping leaves, it may be the result of a lighting or watering issue, so consider moving it from a shady area to a spot with brighter, indirect sunlight or adjust your watering schedule if you notice its soil being too dry or too soggy.

Browning leaves can come from a lack of humidity, scorched leaves from too much light, and yellowing leaves from overwatering. Care for your Alocasia by misting it daily, using a sheer curtain to limit sun exposure, and performing the “finger test” regularly to check soil moisture. 

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