In this article, we’ll explore the various methods of propagating lilies, as well as the tools and materials needed for successful propagation. We’ll also answer frequently asked questions about planting lily bulbs.

How Do I Propagate Lilies?

The method of propagation involves generating new plants from older ones. There are several ways to propagate lilies, including through bulbs, water, seeds, and leaves.

The method you choose will depend on your resources and personal preference.

What Are the Different Ways to Propagate Lilies?

Here are some of the methods you can follow to propagate lilies: 

Division

Divide the bulbs between the fall and early spring when they are dormant.

Dig up the bulb clump gently and separate the bulbs by pulling them apart. Replant the bulbs in well-draining soil with the pointed end facing up.

Bulbils

Some lily species produce small bulbils along the stem. These can be removed and planted in a pot with well-draining soil.

Keep the soil moist and provide indirect sunlight until the bulbils develop roots and shoots.

Stem cutting

Take a stem cutting in the spring or summer and remove the leaves from the lower half of the stem.

Plant it in the ground after dipping the cut end in a rooting hormone. Keep the soil well watered and shaded until the cutting sprouts.

Scaling

This method involves removing scales from the bulb and planting them in a pot with well-draining soil. Cover the scales with soil and keep the soil moist.

Once you notice the scales developing, transplant them to a larger pot or into the ground.

How Do I Propagate Lilies From Water?

You can’t propagate lilies from water alone as they require soil to grow and develop properly. However, you can root lily cuttings in water before transferring them to the soil for further growth.

To propagate lilies from water, follow these steps:

1. Take a stem cutting from a healthy lily plant in the spring or summer. Use a sharp knife to make a clean cut below a leaf node.
2. Remove the leaves from the lower half of the stem, leaving only a few leaves at the top.
3. Put the cutting in a water-filled container or vase. Ensure that the water level covers only the bottom portion of the stem and not the leaves.
4. Place the jar in a bright, indirect light location but away from direct sunlight.
5. Change the water in the jar every few days to keep it clean and fresh.
6. Wait for the roots to develop from the bottom of the stem, which usually takes a few weeks.
7. Once the roots have developed, transfer the cutting to a pot with well-draining soil.
8. Water the soil and place the pot in a bright location with indirect sunlight.
9. Continue to care for the lily plant as it grows, providing appropriate water and sunlight to ensure its healthy growth.

Lily cuttings may not always root successfully in water, so be patient and keep trying until you succeed.

Additionally, once the cuttings develop roots and get transferred to the soil, it may take some time for the plant to grow and bloom.

The time it takes for a propagated lily to grow and bloom can vary depending on various factors, such as the species and environmental conditions.

Generally, lilies grown from cuttings can take several months to a year or more to produce blooms, depending on the conditions in which they are grown.

How Do I Propagate Lilies From Seeds?

Propagation through seeds can be rewarding but requires patience and attention. Begin by collecting mature lily seed pods and breaking them open to extract the seeds. Soak the seeds in warm water for a day, then plant them in well-draining soil.

Place the container in a warm, sunny area and keep the soil moist but not soggy. It can take up to a year for the seeds to germinate and grow into mature plants.

How Do I Propagate Lilies From Leaf?

Propagation through leaf cuttings is the least common method but can be a fun experiment. Begin by selecting a healthy lily leaf and cutting it into sections, ensuring each section has a vein.

Place the leaf sections in a pot with the soil. Roots should begin to form in a few weeks, and you can then transfer the leaf cuttings to the planting pots. 

What Do I Need For Lily Propagation?

The tools and materials you need for lily propagation will vary depending on your method of choice. You’ll need a clean vase and clean water for water propagation.

As for seed propagation, you’ll need well-draining soil, a pot, and mature lily seed pods. Finally, for leaf propagation, you’ll need a healthy lily leaf, a planting pot, and well-draining soil.

How Long Does It Take To Propagate Lilies?

The time it takes to propagate lilies will also depend on the method of choice. Water propagation can take a few weeks, while seed propagation can take up to a year.

Timeline of Propagation For Lilies

Water Propagation: 2–3 weeks

Seed propagation: up to 1 year

Leaf propagation: a few weeks to a few months

FAQs

What are lily bulbs?

Lily bulbs are the underground storage structures of lily plants. They are used for asexual reproduction and are a common way to propagate lilies.

How to plant lily bulbs?

Choose a sunny or partially shaded location. Grab a pot and fill it with organic matter (soil), and dig a hole three times the height of the bulbs. Then place the bulb in the hole, and make the pointed end up.

Then you should apply mulch and fertilizer during the growing phase. Ensure that the soil is moist but not stagnant. 

Conclusion

Taking care of a lily plant or growing it from scratch (the seed) is a process that takes a lot of time, patience, and education.

But with the proper knowledge and a little effort, you can create a stunning display of beautiful lilies that will brighten up any space.

The post Guide to Propagating Lilies appeared first on Garden and Plant Care.

Pruning helps maintain your lily and encourages the growth of new blooms. 

In this article, we’ll explore the various aspects of pruning lilies, including why you need to prune them and how to cut them back.

Pruning and Trimming: The Difference

Pruning and trimming lilies are two different techniques used to maintain and care for the plant.

Pruning involves removing entire branches or stems from the plant to control its size or shape. In lilies, pruning may involve cutting back the stem after the flowers finish blooming or cutting back damaged or diseased branches to promote new growth.

On the other hand, trimming is used to shape and tidy up the plant’s appearance by removing small sections. Trimming may include removing spent flowers, yellowing leaves, or cutting the tips of stems to encourage branching.

Do Lilies Need Pruning?

Yes, lilies require pruning to maintain their health and encourage new growth. Pruning helps remove any dead or damaged parts of the plant, which can attract pests and diseases.

It also helps stimulate the growth of new blooms and keeps the plant looking tidy.

How to Prune Lilies?

Pruning lilies is a straightforward process that you can do using a few simple tools. Here are the steps to follow:

Wait Until The Blooms Have Faded

It’s essential to wait until the blooms have faded and the petals have fallen off before trimming the plant. This allows the plant to redirect its energy toward new growth.

Identify The Stems to be Trimmed

Look for stems that have finished blooming or those that are dead or damaged. These are the stems that need to be taken care of and trimmed.

Cut The Stem

Grab a pair of pruning shears, and cut the stem about an inch above the soil level. Make sure to cut at an angle to prevent water from accumulating on the cut surface, which can lead to rot.

Dispose of The Trimmed Stems

Collect the trimmed stems and dispose of them in the compost bin.

FAQs

Can I Prune my Lilies in The Spring?

No, it’s not advised to prune lilies in the spring, as this can damage emerging growth.

Doing so may hinder the plant’s flowering during the current growing season, and you may have to wait until the following year to see blooms.

Can I use regular scissors to prune my lilies?

No, you shouldn’t use regular scissors to prune lilies. Scissors aren’t suitable for the task because they have straight blades that crush and tear plant tissue instead of making clean cuts.

Instead, use pruning shears as they provide a smoother cut. This will lead to faster healing and reduces disease and infection risks.

Conclusion

Pruning lilies is an essential step in their care routine. It helps maintain their health and appearance.

It’s important to wait until the proper pruning time and use the proper tools for the job. 

The post Pruning Lilies appeared first on Garden and Plant Care.

So, how do you propagate heartleaf fern?

Propagation through division is your best bet for successful fern growth. Plus, it’s the easiest way since you don’t need the extra pot-transferring step. Still, you can get numerous heartleaf ferns through spore propagation.

Read on to learn how to propagate heartleaf fern through plant division and spores.

Related reads: Growing tips for Heart Leaf Fern

How to Propagate Heartleaf Fern by Division

Typically, you can divide those heart-shaped plants by separating the root crown or rhizomes.

For those who don’t know, rhizomes are modified horizontal stems. They usually grow underground in the soil, but you can also find them on the surface. Rhizomes form roots and let new plants grow on top of the soil.

Heartleaf ferns are usually rootbound. However, those plants can also send rhizomes onto the pot’s surface.

Here’s how to propagate heartleaf rhizomes and root crowns by division:

Step 1: Separate the Plant

All you need for this step is a little shovel and a soil knife. Make sure to clean the tools using alcohol or soak them in a bleach solution before using them. The former step is necessary to prevent contamination and infections.

For Rhizomes

1. Look for baby plants that surround the mother plant.
2. Using the shovel, dig around the rhizomes, around 4 inches away.
3. Pull out the baby plants using the shovel.
4. Use the soil knife to cut the rhizome from the main plant.

For Root Crown

You might need to re-pot fern plants once every 3 years. That’s especially necessary if the plant outgrows the pot, shows smaller leaves, grows much slower, or dries out quickly.

In that case, you need to re-pot the ferns, which is a great opportunity to split the houseplant.

Here’s what to do:

1. Flip the pot upside down and tap on the sides and bottom to loosen the plants.
2. Using your fingers, try to loosen the soil to distinguish the smaller plants coming from the mother plant.
3. With a clean soil knife, cut around the smaller plants all the way into the root ball.
4. Continue the same steps until the main plant no longer has surrounding baby plants.
5. Cut off rotten roots and unhealthy fronds to ensure each section grows well.

Step 2: Prepare the Soil

Heartleaf ferns can be unforgiving when it comes to dry soil. They prefer moist, fertile, organic-matter-rich soil. 

Ironically, those heart-shaped plants are susceptible to root rot. For that reason, opt for a light, well-draining potting mix.

You can also prepare the potting soil by mixing four parts coco coir or peat moss, two parts compost, and one part perlite and worm casting.

Step 3: Plant the Sections

Here’s what to do after preparing the soil:

1. Choose a pot that’s at least 1-4 inches wider than the diameter of the roots with drainage holes.
2. For plants with small rhizomes, fill the pot with soil, leaving around an inch below the rim.
3. Dig a small hole and place the small plants.
4. Press the soil down and water the plants each time the top inch of the soil is dry.
5. Keep the plant in a partially shaded area with a warm temperature and high humidity.

For large root crown sections:

1. Fill around one-third of the pot with the potting mix.
2. Place each plant section in the center of separate pots. Make sure the plants are upright.
3. Fill the rest of the pot with the potting mix, leaving 1 inch below the pot’s top.
4. Press the soil down to secure the plants and water them.
5. Keep the plants in warm temperatures—around 65ºF to 75ºF—with moderate humidity, and fertilize them once a month.

How to Propagate Heartleaf Fern Using Spores

Like most ferns, heartleaf plants don’t flower. They reproduce through spores. Spores are inside a sac known as sporangium, which are the dark dots you see at the back of fronds.

Propagating through spores can be slower since you don’t have an established root system already.

Here’s how to propagate through spores:

Step 1: Extract the Spores

This step is pretty simple. All you need to do is snip off leaves with dark brown lines or dots using a clean pruning shear. Don’t pick fronds with white or light green lines because those spores are still unripe.

After collecting a few fronds, place them in a paper bag and leave the fronds to dry for around four or five days. By then, the sporangium would have released the spores in the bag.

Alternatively, you can scratch the sporangium arrangement using a clean knife over a piece of paper.

Step 2: Plant the Spores

1. Fill around 1 inch of a clean plastic container with peat moss. Tap it down to level it.
2. Pour over 2 inches of pure peat moss. Ferns at that stage might not grow in coco peat.
3. Tamp the mixture down to level it.
4. Pour boiled water over the container and leave it covered for around 30 minutes to cool. That’s to kill pathogens found in the germinating mix.
5. Alternatively, microwave the container for around 3 minutes until the mix steams, then let it cool.
6. Sow in the spores by sprinkling them evenly over the soil.
7. Cover the container with a plastic cover or put it inside a zip-lock plastic bag.
8. Keep the container in a partially shaded area and keep the temperature at 65ºF.
9. Wait around 3-5 months until the spores reach the sporophyte stage, producing young fronds.
10. Pot the young frogs in separate 2-inch pots, mist them with water, and feed them seaweed solution.
11. Cover the pots with transparent plastic bags and keep the young ferns in proper growth conditions.

Wrapping Up

Learning how to propagate heartleaf ferns is pretty simple. All you have to do is separate young plants from rhizomes using a shovel and re-pot them. 

If the fern plant is overgrowing the pot, you can make multiple plant sections by cutting through the root crown.

Alternatively, you can propagate ferns from spores. While the former method takes much time and effort, it’ll help you propagate numerous heartleaf ferns.

Whichever method you choose, make sure to provide partial shade, grow the plants in a warm, humid area, and water them regularly. This ensures that the new ferns grow healthy and last a long time!

The post How to Propagate Heartleaf Fern (2 Methods) appeared first on Garden and Plant Care.

What’s more, propagation might be your last hope to save a dying plant. Not to mention that it’s an efficient way to take advantage of pruned pieces.

Read on to learn how to propagate goldfish plants in water and soil. 

Step 1: Gather the Necessary Tools

For water propagation here’s what you’ll need:,

• Plant pruning scissors
• Alcohol
• Potting soil
• Perlite
• Fertilizer (preferably liquid fish emulsion)
• 6-inch plant pots
• Rooting hormone (optional)

Step 2: Take the Cuttings

Generally, you’ll need stem or leaf cuttings to propagate goldfish plants. Goldfish seeds, on the other hand, are hard to get.

It’s worth noting that the condition of the goldfish plant cuttings you get plays a significant role in propagation success.

Here’s what to look for when taking a goldfish plant cutting:

• Look for branches without flowers. That’s because all the food and energy will support flowering and not rooting.
• Look for the pliable, green part of the stems. It’s at the top end of a branch.
• Only use healthy-looking leaves without discoloration or mold as cuttings.

After picking the branches with the highest probability of successful propagation, sterilize the pruning shears with alcohol. Then, cut right below the nodes.

The cuttings should be 4-6 inches, but not any more. Large cuttings produce thin, tall plants or might not root at all. 

Make sure to remove the bottom, small leaves. That’s because the young foliage falls into the water or soil container and rot.

For leaf cuttings, chop around an inch and a half from the petiole.

Step 3: Plant Cuttings in the Propagating Medium

As mentioned earlier, you can use water or soil to grow goldfish plants. Water medium makes it easy to surround yourself with the beautiful plant without needing much time, effort, and cost.

However, the water propagating isn’t sustainable in the long run. Soon, the plants will demand more nutrients to survive.

Soil, on the other hand, can be a bit more complex and slower than a water medium. Still, you’ll eventually have to pot the plant propagules in the soil. 

So, adding the extra water propagating step can be overwhelming unless you’re only planting a few goldfish plant cuttings.

Let’s discuss each medium in further detail!

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Water Medium

In general, you can water-propagate most common houseplants, including goldfish plants. However, that propagating method is only successful for stem and leaf cuttings.

That said, goldfish plants need humidity to grow well. If you live in a dry place, water propagation can be easier to root those plants than soil propagation.

Some plant-growing methods add nutrients to the water so that the propagules don’t need soil to survive. That nutrient-rich liquid system is known as hydroponics.

Here’s what you need to do:

1. Fill a clean glass jar or any container with room-temperature water. Tap water would work fine, but if you want to go the extra mile, use rainwater.
2. Don’t go overboard with the water. Just pour enough to cover the stem’s node.
3. Place the plant cutting inside the jar. Make sure not to submerge leaf cuttings in water, as they’ll rot.
4. Change the water every 3-5 days or at least once a week. That’s to replenish the depleted oxygen in the water as the plants grow.
5. Mist the leaves regularly to remove dust and increase moisture.
6. Once the roots are around 3 to 5 inches, it’s time to move the cuttings to the soil.

Soil Medium

Goldfish plants grow best in light, well-draining soil. That’s because these plants are epiphytes. They need structural support from other plants, like trees, to grow. Plus, those epiphytes get water from rain and nutrients from decaying plant debris.

As you can tell from their nature, goldfish plants won’t survive waterlogged soil. For that reason, use propagating soil made of two parts organic potting mix and one part perlite. Alternatively, you can buy planting mix for propagation.

Here’s what you need to do after preparing the soil mix:

1. Fill the 6-inch pots around halfway with the soil. Make sure to use sterile pots with draining holes.
2. Dampen the soil and make a center hole for the cuttings.
3. Dip the cutting ends in a rooting hormone. Although this step is optional, the rooting hormone provides essential nutrients to promote fast root growth.
4. Plant the stem or leaf cuttings into the damp soil.
5. Cover the remaining half of the pot with soil.
6. Water the pot and keep the goldfish propagules under favorable conditions.

Step 4: Provide Suitable Growth Conditions

After choosing the propagation method, provide the goldfish plant with proper growth conditions to ensure the cuttings root.

Here’s what you need to know:

Light

Since goldfish plants are tropical, they prefer a lot of bright light during the day. However, direct sunlight can cause leaf burn. For that reason, place the pot in an area with partial shade near a northern- or eastern-facing window.

Temperature and Humidity

Goldfish plants are sensitive to heat and cold. So, make sure to keep them at a temperature between 65ºF and 75ºF.

Additionally, maintain moderate to high humidity, around 50% or higher. You can mist the plants daily or use a humidifier to achieve those conditions.

Fertilizer

Goldfish prefer slightly acidic soil. For that reason, opt for a fertilizer that has an acidifying effect, like fish emulsion.

That said, only start fertilizing goldfish propagules once roots grow and establish in the soil. That can take around two to three weeks.

Watering

While goldfish can’t survive in waterlogged soil, they still need water to thrive. Consequently, you should water whenever the top inch feels dry. You can use the finger test to know whether the soil needs watering.

Wrapping Up

You can propagate goldfish plants in both soil and water. All you must do is pick the appropriate cuttings. To do that, make sure to cut young, green stems without flowers. Alternatively, you can snip off healthy leaves.

Plant them in clean water or well-draining soil after making the cutting stock. Also, provide them with indirect, bright light, warm temperatures, and moderate to high humidity. 

Soon, you’ll see the cuttings rooting and maturing into beautiful goldfish plants!

The post How to Propagate Goldfish Plant (A Step-By-Step Guide) appeared first on Garden and Plant Care.

However, there are days when Aglaonema might not be in its best shape. Rather than giving up on your plant, this can be the best time for a fresh start by propagation.

In this post, we’ll explain how to propagate Aglaonema successfully. We’ll also elaborate on the pros and cons of different propagation methods for this plant.

How Do I Propagate Aglaonema?

Luckily, Aglaonema can be propagated in several ways. However, there are some limitations that you’ll need to consider.

For the division process, your Aglaonema should have at least one new offshoot. If not, you can go for the second or third method, as they’ll allow you to propagate the plant even with a single stem.

Here’s a breakdown of the three propagation methods that we’d recommend for Aglaonema:

Division

Propagation by division is one of the most reliable ways to propagate Aglaonema, as the roots are already developed. Below are the steps for this process:

1. Release the Plant

Use your hands to tap the sides and the base of the pot, so that the soil becomes loose from the edges. Then, spread your fingers between the plant stalks and turn the pot upside down. 

A shovel might help you with this process, but make sure you use it gently.

Next, use a fork or your fingers to break through the hardened soil. Try to release as much soil as possible, so that you can clearly see where you’re making the cut.

2. Cut Your Divisions

As we mentioned earlier, you’ll need to look for an offshoot to divide it from the mother plant. Avoid the middle parts of the plant and go for stems on the side, so that the original plant remains intact.

Cut clumps of leaves that are connected to developed roots. If you find any suckers connected to roots or rhizomes, you can give them a chance for growth and plant them in a separate pot.

3. Root Trim

You can plant your Aglaonema divisions right away. Still, we’d suggest making a root trim, especially if your plant’s leaves were drooping, which might indicate root rot. 

Even if the roots are healthy, cutting off the older segments will give the plant a fresh start.

4. Add New Soil Mix

It’s better to use a soil mix that’s similar to the older mix. Still, we recommend using the following components:

• 30% typical garden soil
• 25% Coco Peat or Peat Moss
• 25% Vermicompost
• 20% Perlite

This soil mix will keep the soil aerated and facilitate excess water drainage. So, there would be less risk of root rot.

5. Place Divisions in Pots

Fill the pots with some of the soil mix before placing the plants, then add more soil afterward on top to stabilize each plant division in the pot.

Finally, water the plants and cover them with clear plastic wrap to trap humidity. Keep the pots in a bright spot without exposing them to direct sunlight.

Stem Cuttings in Water

Aglaonema, like many other tropical plants, can be propagated by cutting. The beauty of this method is that you’ll get to watch the roots grow if you use a transparent container. This is a mesmerizing process, especially in winter, when there’s less growth in outdoor spaces.

You can use scissors to cut the top part of any stem, but make sure you sterilize the cutting tools, first, to prevent contamination. The cut portion should be around 4-8 inches in length.

Honestly, the mother plant might not seem presentable at the beginning. Still, you’ll be fascinated to see the cut part grow new leaves in a matter of days.

As for the detached stem, simply fill a glass cup with some water and place the stem inside. You can use elegant glass vases instead if you wish to display them at home.

A tip that we found helpful regarding propagation in water, is to use smaller containers. This would allow you to add a small amount of water so that the released growth hormone doesn’t get diluted. As a result, the roots will grow faster, and the plant can save energy for growing other parts.

Keep in mind that water isn’t the most nutritious medium for your plant. So, eventually, you’ll need to transfer Aglaonema to a soil mix when it grows numerous roots.

Stem Cuttings in Soil

This method is similar to the previous one as it requires stem cutting. However, you’ll directly transfer the stem to a soil mix.

Frankly, this method is slightly challenging, compared to the other two as its success isn’t always guaranteed. 

Still, experts recommend soil for propagation as it encourages the growth of a better root system, compared to rooting in water. 

Here are the steps for propagation in soil:

1. Prepare the  Soil Mix

This time, it’s better to use a potting mix containing 80% Cocopeat and 20% Vermicompost. Fill the pot all the way up and dig a hole in the middle to place the stem cutting.

2. Treat the Stem Tip

As an optional step, you can dip the stem cutting in a hormone powder or natural aloe vera gel to encourage rooting. Add more of the powder or gel inside the hole.

3. Place the Stem Cutting

Place the plant inside the hole and tap the soil lightly to hold it in place. Make sure the stem is at least 2 inches deep inside the soil.

Finally, water the plant and keep it in a bright room. You’ll need to water it again when the top layer of the soil looks dry.

Wrapping Up

Learning to manipulate the growth of your plants is an art worth mastering. Now that you’ve learned how to propagate Aglaonema, there’s a great chance you’ll be able to save withering plants and give them a new life.

Propagation through cutting or division is also a faster and more affordable way to grow your indoor garden. Added to that, it’s a beauty to spread your Aglaonema’s descendants by gifting family and friends.

The post How to Propagate Aglaonema? appeared first on Garden and Plant Care.

Luckily, you can propagate spider plants using multiple methods, and they usually lead to good results. Propagating this plant in water and soil is probably the most successful method, but you can definitely grow it from root divisions, seed, or propagate it in an aroid mix if you want to. 

In this article, we’ll explain in detail how to propagate spider plants successfully and what results are expected with each method. We’ll also suggest a few tips to guarantee that your plant will stay in great shape. So, keep reading to learn more about this topic. 

How Do I Propagate Spider Plants?

Spider plants are among the easiest to grow and propagate, which is why they’re extremely popular among beginner gardeners. With minimum care, your plant will grow rosettes of arching leaves that can be about 18 inches long. Each one of these rosettes or spiderettes can be grown into a separate plant using various methods, in water, soil, or an aroid mix. 

Moreover, you can wait until your spider plant flowers and the fruits dry out. Then, you’ll notice small shoots or seed pods growing where the flowers used to be, and you can take the seed to grow new plants. 

When Should You Propagate Spider Plants?

Since spider plants are pretty hardy, you can propagate them any time of the year as long as you provide them with the needed warmth and water. However, you need to wait until your plant is growing spiderettes or pups for this to work. Taking a leaf and simply putting it in the soil won’t result in new root growth. 

When you notice these tiny rosettes hanging from the original plant, this is an excellent time to think about propagating your plant. However, remember that it might take a couple of years before your plant is mature enough to produce these spiderettes. 

Cutting these pups directs the plant’s energy toward the mother plant. As soon as you see the small roots at their bottom, you can cut them off to grow new plants. 

How Do I Propagate Spider Plants From Water?

Growing spider plant pups in water is the easiest and most successful way of propagating this hard-to-kill plant. Moreover, it’s a great way to propagate several spiderettes at the same time. Here’s what you need to do. 

• Use sterilized shears to trim off the baby plants off the mother spider plant. 
• Make sure that each spiderette has its own small protruding roots. 
• Get a jar for each baby plant and fill it with water, ensuring that the roots touch the water. 
• Top off the water whenever you feel that this needs to be done, and add a suitable water-soluble plant food to encourage growth. 

You can also get a shallow container and cover it with plastic wrap after filling it with water. Then, make holes through the wrap and place your baby spider plants, making sure that the roots touch the water surface. 

This method leads to the fastest growth rate, but eventually, you’ll have to transfer your plant to a soil-filled pot. Yet, it can be a great alternative if you want to keep several baby spider plants on your nightstand or coffee table. 

How Do I Propagate Spider Plants In Soil?

This method works just like the previous one, but it has one additional advantage. Since your plant will be already growing in soil, you won’t have to transfer it into potting soil after a while when the root system grows too big for the water jar. Propagating your spider plant in the soil can be done using these straightforward steps. 

• After cutting off the baby plants, plant them into a suitable potting mix. 
• Water your baby spider plants regularly, making sure that the soil stays moist by not soggy. 
• Provide your spider plants with a good fertilizer once a month to keep them healthy. 

You can also use an aroid mix made of perlite, orchid bark, worm castings, and some base soil. Although you won’t experience significant growth, it’s still a good option to consider. 

There’s also another way to grow new spider plants from the original one while they’re still attached. If you see aerial roots growing off your plant, place a small pot near the original one so that the aerial root is in touch with the growing medium. 

After that, you should bury about ¼ inch of the aerial root while it’s still attached to the mother plant. You’ll notice that the attached spiderettes are growing rapidly because they’re receiving nutrients from the original root system and the aerial root. In a few days, you’ll be able to cut off the spiderette and grow your new spider plant separately. 

How Do I Propagate Spider Plants From Root Division?

This is another easy and guaranteed way to grow your spider plants, and it’s not that different from the previous one. Here’s what to do. 

• Dig out your spider plant from the pot and use a soft brush to clean the root ball. 
• Gently use your hands to pull apart the root ball. 
• Grab a section of the root ball and use sterilized shears to cut it off. 
• Replant the section in a new pot filled with an adequate potting mix. 
• Return your original spider plant to its pot, or transfer it to a bigger one. 
• Keep both plants hydrated and grant them access to indirect sunlight with partial shade. 
• Feed your plants once a month to boost growth. 

How Do I Propagate Spider Plants From Seed?

Propagating spider plants from seed is possible but not that common. This method takes too much time, while the other methods are easier. Yet, if you want to experiment with this method, you can either get the seed from a reliable supplier or try to pollinate the flowers yourself. Here are the right steps to follow. 

• Wait until the flowers appear on your spider plant. 
• Use a cotton swab to brush all the flowers to get them fertilized. 
• Wait until the flowers mature to fruits and then fade. 
• The fruits will turn into green seed pods, but you should wait until they dry. 
• Once dry, open the pods and pick the seed. Make sure that you pick as many seeds as possible because the success of this method depends on the individual fertility of the seed you pick. 
• Plant your seeds about half an inch deep into a suitable potting mix, and keep the seedlings moist and warm. 

FAQs

1. Can You Propagate Spider Plants From Leaf Cuttings?

Unless you have a spiderette with an already growing root system, your spider plant won’t grow. So, using leaf cuttings to grow a new spider plant won’t work. 

Wrap Up

The spider plant is one of the easiest to grow and propagate. You can simply cut off the spiderettes and grow them in water or soil. However, you can still grow a new plant while it’s still attached to the original one by placing one aerial root in a new pot. 

Propagating spider plants by diving the roots and from seed is possible, but the seeding method might not always succeed. It’s not possible to propagate the spider plant from leaf cuttings. 

The post How to Propagate Spider Plants Successfully appeared first on Garden and Plant Care.

Although this plant is native to Borneo, it became popular in Europe and the US during the 19^th and 20^th centuries, and it’s best propagated by dividing the rhizomes. However, growing the plant from seed is also possible. 

So, if you want to know how to propagate Alocasia cuprea successfully, the different propagation methods, and the necessary factors to look out for, keep reading. 

How Do I Propagate Alocasia Cuprea?

The Alocasia cuprea is often grown as an indoor plant, becoming an impressive centerpiece wherever you set up the pot. Thanks to the stunning foliage and the remarkable size of the leaves, the red secret plant can be a great addition to add some tropical vibes to your indoor space. 

Yet, some people choose to bring this plant outside during the warmer months, as this can boost its growth. So, you might want to propagate your plant since it’s not that easy to find. 

The red secret plant has a fast-growing rate, even in colder climates. In its favorable conditions, the Alocasia cuprea can produce a new leaf every week, and the leaf’s size will double weekly, so pruning the plant will keep it in good health. With proper care, your Alocasia cuprea can reach a height of up to 3 feet. 

What Are the Different Ways to Propagate Alocasia Cuprea?

The Alocasia cuprea can be propagated by dividing the rhizomes or from clumps, and this is the most successful method that guarantees that your plant will grow healthily. Although you can propagate your red secret plant in water, you’ll eventually have to transform it into a new pot because the root system won’t survive for long. 

Growing Alocasia cuprea from seed is possible, but it’s a time-consuming and challenging task. This plant typically takes years until it has established its root system, so professional growers only choose this process. 

When Should You Propagate Alocasia Cuprea?

If you already have an Alocasia cuprea with leaves that start to droop, then this is a sign that it’s time to propagate your plant. This plant will wilt when it becomes root bound, as the rhizomes will be too big for the current pot. 

You might also want to propagate your red secret plant when you start to notice that it’s becoming top-heavy. This usually happens when the plant rotates to receive more sun, so the large leaves weigh the stems down, and they eventually snap. 

The best time to propagate Alocasia cuprea is in spring, as this will give the new plant a chance to recover and grow during summer. Alocasia plants stay dormant in fall and winter and might not experience any growth. Propagating your plant in cold weather won’t give it time to recover from the transplant shock, and it will probably die. 

How Do I Propagate Alocasia Cuprea From Divisions?

You can only propagate Alocasia cuprea from clumps if the plant has young pups, so they can grow to be bigger plants. Moreover, the pup you pick should be at least 7 or 8 inches to ensure the roots are big enough to support the new plant. 

If your plant has no pups or they’re too small, you’ll have to wait for a while until they grow. Here are the steps you should follow. 

• The day before you plan the dividing process, give your plant a good soak because the dividing process will inhibit its ability to feed properly, at least for a while. 
• Sterilize your tools before touching the plant using hot water and rubbing alcohol to prevent the transfer of any bacteria or pests. 
• Dig out the plant gently from the pot by rolling it to its side. 
• Use a brush to separate the pup from the mother plant, and make sure you handle the root system carefully. 
• Cut one of the pups, ensuring that the cuttings you’ve picked have their own roots. 
• Move the cutting to a new pot after filling it with a suitable potting mix and water it adequately. 
• Return the plant to its pot or use a slightly larger one to give it extra room for growth. 
• Provide the mother plant and the pup with indirect bright sunlight to boost growth by placing them near a north or east-facing window. Both plants should recover within a month, and you’ll be able to see your plants growing at a steady rate. 

How Do I Propagate Alocasia Cuprea from Seed?

Growing Alocasia cuprea from seed isn’t that common because dividing the roots is pretty straightforward and successful. Yet, you might want to give it a try. 

Finding Alocasia cuprea seed for sale isn’t easy as this plant is a bit rare. Yet, if you have a mature plant that flowers, you might be able to pick the seed from the dry seed pots. However, most people miss the flowers because they’re too small and stay in bloom for a short period. 

If you happen to get the seed, plant them in a peat-based rich potting mix, and make sure that you fertilize and water them regularly. It might take years of continuous care until the seedlings can grow into full plants. 

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How Do I Propagate Alocasia Cuprea from Water?

Although some types of Alocasia, like the zebrina and stingray varieties, can be propagated in water, this method doesn’t necessarily work for the red secret plant. Yet, you can try it if you want to keep a pup of your mother Alocasia plant on a coffee table. 

Instead of planting your pup plant in soil, you’ll keep it in a vase or jar, making sure that it’s not too transparent as this plant doesn’t tolerate bright sunlight. It’s important to fertilize your plant once every month and change the water once every five days or whenever it gets discolored. 

Wrap Up

It’s easy to propagate your Alocasia cuprea or red secret plant from root divisions or pups. Since this is a fast-growing plant, you might want to do this whenever you feel that the plant is becoming top-heavy to protect the stems from snapping. 

Propagating your red secret plant from seed is possible, but it’s not common because it takes too much time. You can also propagate your plant in water, but it won’t grow much. 

FAQs

1. Is Alocasia Cuprea rare?

Alocasia cuprea, or the red secret plant, is not that common to find, so it can be considered a rare plant. 

2. Does Alocasia Cuprea like to grow in soggy conditions?

No, this plant has moderate water requirements, so you shouldn’t provide it with too much water after propagation. In winter, you should cut down on the water when the plant isn’t actively growing. 

The post How to Propagate Alocasia Cuprea appeared first on Garden and Plant Care.

If you own a calathea zebrina, propagating it will ensure you get new plants without buying a new one from the store. 

Here’s everything you need to know about how to propagate calathea zebrina.

How Do I Propagate Calathea Zebrina?

The typical way of propagating calathea zebrina is through root division. It’s one of the best methods because it gives you plenty of plants, and it keeps the mother plant intact. Plus, it prevents the plant from getting crowded with the roots growing out of control.

To propagate your calathea zebrina, start by pulling the plant out of its container. You’ll have to be careful while doing this step because the roots are often too fragile, and you don’t want to tear them off in the process.

You’ll find that the plant’s stem is already naturally divided near the roots. Follow these divisions and take the divided ones out. 

Plant the tiny roots in new soil, and keep the container in the dark for a while. Keep it where it is for 2–4 weeks, depending on when the growth will start.

Then, take it out of the dark and keep it in indirect sunlight.

What Are the Different Ways to Propagate Calathea Zebrina?

You can propagate your calathea zebrina through root divisions, from its seeds, or in water. However, the root division method is the best out of the three because it guarantees results. 

Propagating from seeds doesn’t always result in germination, and propagation from water takes plenty of time to show results.

How Do I Propagate Calathea Zebrina From Water?

To propagate calathea zebrina in water, all you have to do is take the divided roots out and plant them in water instead of soil. Then, keep the plant in the dark until it shows any growth. 

However, you’ll still have to move the plant to the soil eventually because it doesn’t grow in water. So, it’s easier to skip this step and propagate it in the soil instead.

How Do I Propagate Calathea Zebrina From Seed?

Propagating calathea zebrinas from their seeds is often not recommended because it’s a complicated process. Besides, some of them may not germinate.

However, it’s still possible, so here’s how to propagate the plant from its seeds:

1. Once you get the seeds from the store, place them in moist soil. It’s better to use a germination tray, but you can also use plastic plates or similar containers.
2. Dig the seeds about a quarter of an inch into the soil, then cover the container you’re using to prevent humidity from escaping.
3. Keep the container in an area with direct sunlight, and check the soil now and then to make sure it’s still moist.
4. When the seeds grow 1–1.5 inches tall, you can start moving them into separate pots and start watering them regularly.
5. If the seeds don’t grow even after 3–4 weeks, there may be something wrong with them. Or, they may not be getting the right temperature or humidity for growth. 

How Do I Propagate Calathea Zebrina From Leaf?

You can’t propagate calathea zebrina from its leaves or stems because they don’t have the tissues required for growing a new plant. The only way to do so is through root divisions or seeds.

What Do You Need for Calathea Zebrina Propagation?

To propagate calathea zebrina, you need the following tools:

• A new container or a vase
• A pair of sharp scissors or pruners
• Water

If you’re propagating them from seeds, you may need a germination tray and a plastic cover.

Other than the tools, you need a dark, humid place to keep the plant until it grows into a new one. 

How Long Does It Take to Propagate Calathea Zebrina?

Propagating calathea zebrina may take some time because these plants are slow growers. It’ll take the divided roots or seeds around 2–4 weeks to grow into new plants.

After that, the plant will grow at its usual pace, reaching its normal size after one year or so. You should generally repot it every 2 to 3 years to ensure healthy growth.

What Is the Best Time to Propagate Calathea Zebrina?

The best time to start propagating your calathea zebrina is before spring starts. That’s because these plants have a growth cycle that starts in the middle of the spring and ends right before winter. 

So, propagating the plant before spring starts will allow it to have its full cycle, and it’ll ensure you’ll have a fully grown plant by the summer.

Frequently Asked Questions

Here are frequently asked questions about propagating calathea zebrina.

When should I propagate calathea zebrina?

You can propagate calathea zebrina when it’s grown too far and you want to transfer it to a larger pot. Doing so will expose the roots to the air, so you can make use of the situation and divide them when you have the chance.

What soil mix should I use for calathea zebrina?

Calathea zebrinas grow well in a soil mix of perlite and peat. For the best results, use a ratio of two parts of peat and one part of perlite.

How big should the plant be before I propagate it?

You’ll know the plant is big enough to propagate when you see visible divisions in the root. You can divide the roots at these bits and propagate them.

It’s better not to divide the roots until they naturally divide themselves because they may not be big enough yet.

Generally, calathea zebrinas are often ready for propagation before the spring starts, when their growth cycle has already ended.

Final Thoughts

Now that you know how to propagate calathea zebrina, you’ll hopefully have a new, fully-grown plant by the next summer. Remember to keep it in a dark place while it’s growing, and don’t attempt to divide the roots until the ball is naturally divided.

The post How to Propagate Calathea Zebrina appeared first on Garden and Plant Care.

I still remember my first plant cutting, the first plant I ever propagated.

I must have been about five. While walking with my grandmother, I found a large segment of a succulent similar to some Euphorbia. It was lying on the ground, probably after falling out of a pot on somebody’s windowsill.

“Bring it home and put it in water,” she said. “It will come alive.”

And it did! That piece of succulent grew roots and more segments after transplantation – we’ve had it for years to come.

The magic has stuck to this day. The experience of plant propagation has probably made me the plant person I am today.

Many people like simply like how plants look. However, if you’re a true plant lover and enthusiast, you will not stop at just there standing in awe. At some point, you will surely attempt to propagate your favorite plants.

Let me take you to the world of successful plant propagation, where you will learn about the seeds, sprouts, water roots, air roots, and all the means to create lovely plant progeny successfully. I’m sure you’re rooting for it as much as I am!

Plant Propagation Explained!

According to David Trinklein, a plant scientist at the University of Missouri, “plant propagation is the process of increasing the number of plants of a particular species or cultivar.”

So, unlike the good old childhood experiment when you take the mud off your boots, put it in the plant pot, and water it to see what grows, plant propagation is the act of reproducing a particular plant and is done to multiply the species or the hybrid you’re interested in.

However, not all plants can be propagated the same way. What works for some will not work for others, especially if you’re looking to reproduce a specific cultivar.

Types Of Plant Propagation

We see plants as static, passive creatures. Some even call them ‘boring.’

All those people might be surprised to learn that plants have a fascinating array of reproductive strategies, including a weirdly wonderful sex life!

Plants reproduce in two main ways:

• Sexual (via spores or seeds)
• Asexual (vegetative reproduction via plant parts)

Plant Propagation by Spores

Some primitive plants, like ferns and mosses, use spores to reproduce, making their lifecycle very complex. 

Although it is certainly interesting, the elaborateness of the process usually makes gardeners reach for other, easier means of vegetative propagation (see below). Thus, spore propagation will remain out of the scope of this article (sorry, cute little gametophytes!).

If you are still curious, you’ll be happy to know that propagating house ferns by spores is complicated by doable.

Plant Propagation By Seed

Plant reproduction from seed is certainly the most economical way to reproduce plants. You usually have many seeds and care for multiple seedlings the same way, so you can produce a considerable number of plants with the same amount of effort and energy.

Reproduction by seed is called sexual because two individual plants exchange their genetic material. The pollen from the male plant, or its male flower parts, reaches the ovule of the female flower or hermaphroditic flower, triggering fertilization and fruiting. A brand new, genetically district offspring springs from the seeds once they mature.

Unless the plant species are self-pollinating, the sexual reproduction of plants usually leads to the creation of “plant children” that are different from their parents. This helps plants adapt to changes in their natural environment.

How To Propagate Plants From Seeds

Seed germination is the most common method of plant propagation. From turfgrass to daisies to ornamental trees – all these plants are usually propagated by seed germination.

Seeds germination begins by planting viable seeds in a suitable growing medium. You can simply sow many garden plant seeds directly into the ground when the temperatures are correct, and provide regular watering until the new plants become strong.

However, many plant enthusiasts want more control of the process and opt for germinating the seeds indoors – in controlled, artificial conditions. This also goes for plants from exotic climates.

For indoor seed germination, you’ll need growing pots, a growing medium, and in many cases, lighting and heating.

You can buy a growing medium for seed as a pre-made mix or create your own. 

The most common growing mediums are:

• Coconut coir
• Peat moss
• Vermiculite
• Stone wool cubes 

What is common to these mediums is that they have good water retention properties and are sterile. The sterile medium is important since seedlings easily catch plant diseases – especially the notorious damping off.

The conditions you’ll provide for seeds to germinate and develop into new plants vary on the species, but some standard rules apply.

• Successful germination requires a temperature within a specific range.
• Proper humidity also helps germination.
• Seedlings require direct light to develop properly.
• The time required for germination depends on the plant type.

Of course, there are many unique traits to be taken into account. Some seeds require frost exposure to germinate. Others with a hard seed coat need to be mechanically damaged so the seedling can get through. 

The crucial thing for success is to do your homework on the type of plant you want to propagate the seeds to and ensure the right conditions.

The Downside of Seed Propagation for Horticulturists

As you’ve learned, plant propagation from seed is the most straightforward and cheapest way to get new plants. Besides that, you get to witness the magic of plant development from the very start.

However, unless when they’re experimenting with creating something novel, gardeners usually want to propagate a specific plant type, a cultivar.

Plant cultivar is short for ‘cultivated variety.’ It is a specific type within a particular plant species that looks, smells, and grows in its own unique way.

The trouble is that many cultivars will not “breed true” from seeds, meaning that the offspring will likely lose the desired look and traits through cross-pollination. This is especially true for woody species. Plant a seed from a Granny Smith apple – and you will get a wild-like offspring, probably nothing like a tree with the juicy green hybrid fruits you were hoping for.

That is why plant enthusiasts have to find a way to clone a cultivar – and do that by artificial asexual or vegetative plant reproduction.

Vegetative Plant Propagation

Vegetative plant propagation happens when a vegetative part of the parent plant – be it a stem,  leaf, or root – is initiated into becoming a new plant. 

Since no mixing of genetic material is involved, the new plant will be a genetic double of its parent – practically, a clone.

Asexual, vegetative reproduction can be natural or artificial.

Natural Vegetative Plant Propagation

In the case of natural vegetative propagation, an entirely new plant grows out of the mother plant’s organ – a stolon, a rhizome, a bulb, or a tuber.

In these cases, an axillary bud becomes a sideway shoot, grows its roots, and becomes a miniature clone of the mother plant. Strawberries and spider plants, for example, grow long stolons (long reproductive stems) and baby plants on them.

Artificial Vegetative Plant Propagation

Artificial vegetative propagation uses mechanisms of plant regeneration. The viable plant piece is practically trying to grow its missing organs so it can go on living. If given the right conditions, it will succeed! And that’s precisely the grower’s job.

Remember my Euphorbia childhood story from the introduction? That was a classic example of artificial reproduction via cutting. 

Some plants will “regenerate” spontaneously with no human intervention if conditions are right – e.g., if their segment falls onto moist soil and the soil remains moist for long enough for the segment to take root.

There are several means of human-assisted vegetative plant reproduction.

• Cuttings 
• Division
• Grafting and budding

Now, I’ll give you a short introduction to each!

How To Propagate Plants Via Cuttings

Rooting cuttings is probably the most favored plant propagation plant technique for houseplants. 

Here are several steps to propagate your favorite plants through rooting cuttings successfully

• Take a cutting from an existing plant. You should pick the cutting from a healthy and mature plant; it should include a section of stem with leaves or buds. 

• Place the cutting in a suitable rooting medium or water.
  • Using sterile mediums such as coconut coir, vermiculite, stone wool, or mixed germination substrates is best. 
  • Not all plants can root in water, but for others, this is easy; however, water roots are different from regular roots, and the cutting will need to adjust once transplanted into soil.
  • Although it’s a viable strategy in the absence of these ideal substrates, using common potting soil and sand includes the risk of plant diseases.
  • For plants that are difficult to root, you can dip the tip of the cutting in the rooting hormone. This pricey but helpful product can be found in specialized stores.

• Once the cutting has been placed in the growing medium or water, keep it moist and protected from direct sunlight. 
• Over time (depending on the species), the cutting should develop roots and grow into a new plant. Take care of it the same way as you do with the mother plant, although note that the cuttings are a bit more sensitive in their first months.

How To Propagate Plants By Division

By doing plant division, you are artificially creating new plants by dividing the mother plant into several smaller ones. 

This simple method works for most plants that have a clumping growth habit. Clumping is a natural type of vegetative reproduction via rhizomes or other structures – in nature, these plants spread by forming thickets. 

In some cases, you will have to do a division to keep the plant healthy. For example, Hostas can spread in the garden all they want, and the quality of their growth will not be affected. However, if you have a clumping potted plant such as Calathea, you should divide it every couple of years to ensure it stays in good shape. Otherwise, the middle part of the plant will become stunted and eventually die.

Doing plant division is easy. Still, there are a few details that demand attention.

• Carefully take the mother plant out of the pot (or dig it up).
• Using your fingertips, carefully work your way into the root ball and separate the clump into smaller sections.
  • The number of sections depends on your needs and wants, but make sure to leave a good root system in each section.
• Replant the divided plants into new pots, and keep them out of excessive light or a couple of weeks until they settle.

Grafting and Budding

Grafting and budding are techniques for the vegetative propagation of woody plant cultivars. A graft (a piece of the stem) or a bud of the desired plant is grafted or budded onto another related plant with roots. In the grafting science (and trust me, it is a scientific branch of its own, no pun intended), the graft or bud is called a scion, and the “host” plant is called the rootstock.

After the successful grafting procedure that looks pretty much like a plant surgery and involves cutting, disinfection, and “bandaging” (fixing the scion in place), the scion will continue growing on the rootstock, producing its unique fruits of flowers powered by the rootstock circulatory system. 

The rootstock plant will not express its properties in any visible way unless you let the suckers grow – these are the descendants of the rootstock plant.

Grafting and budding are default techniques to propagate fruit and flowering shrub cultivars (e.g., roses) and let us reproduce clones of a specific cultivar (essentially, a plant mutant). Remember what we learned before? Woody cultivars don’t breed true from seeds.

As I said before, grafting and budding are very complex techniques that require special tools, techniques, knowledge, and experience that are beyond the scope of this article. However, there are plenty of free and knowledgeable resources, both short and elaborate ones. The more you know about the plant physiology behind the process, the higher your chances of success.

To Sum It Up

Regardless of the method you choose, a few rules apply to all the listed types of plant propagation.

• Choose healthy, disease-free plant material, whether it’s seeds, cuttings, or division stock. 
• Make sure to use a well-draining and sterile growing medium
• Pay attention to the special needs of the plant you are propagating, such as temperature, moisture, light levels, and nutrient needs, to ensure optimal growth and, finally – success.

By arming yourself with a little patience and a lot of knowledge, you can expand your plant collection in the most rewarding and cost-effective way – by propagating them yourself.

It doesn’t matter if you are a beginner plant enthusiast or a seasoned gardener – I promise that plant propagation always gives thrills to all true plant lovers. 

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The post Plant Propagation: The Ultimate Brief Guide appeared first on Garden and Plant Care.

At an average height of 2-3 feet, you might not feel encouraged to divide your plant into smaller pots. So, in this article, we’ll detail how to propagate Calathea Ornata properly. 

Read on to learn how to divide this plant safely.

What Are the Different Ways to Propagate Calathea Ornata?

Out of the common plant propagation ways, the division method is what works best for Calathea Ornata. You can also grow new plants from Calathea seeds, but it’ll probably take much longer. As for leaf cuttings, they won’t grow into a new plant, whether they’re rooted in water or not. 

That’s because Calathea Ornata doesn’t have a single stalk from which the leaves branch. Instead, each leaf grows its own stem starting from the roots. That’s why each propagated division of leaves should have its established roots.

What Do You Need for Calathea Ornata Propagation?

It’s fairly easy to propagate Calathea Ornata with minimal tools. Here’s what you need to start the process:

• A healthy mother plant: the mother plant needs to have enough stalks and each division should have some grown roots.
• Containers for new plants: you can use plastic bags, bottles, or even empty food packages. However, it’s best to use terracotta pots to rid the soil of excess water.
• Soil and water: choose a soil mix that’s similar to the original mix.
• Plastic bags: you’ll need a clear plastic material. Our aim is to let bright light reach the plant while trapping humidity inside.
• Cutting tools: you can use knives, scissors, or shears. Just ensure that you sterilize those tools to avoid contaminating the plant.
• Shovel: you might find it easier to remove the soil around the roots using a shovel or a fork. Otherwise, if you’ll use your hands, we’d recommend you wear gloves as you might discover some pests around the roots.
• Pest treatments: Calathea Ornata is prone to spider mites. So, if you discover any pests while propagating the plant, it’s best to treat it instantly with neem oil.

How Do I Propagate Calathea Ornata?

Now that you’ve got the tools, let’s get into the steps of dividing Calathea Ornata.

1. Release the Plant

Before starting, we’d recommend that you place a plastic sheet or newspaper on a workstation if you’re dividing your Calathea Ornata indoors. Next, tap your plant’s pot from the side to release the plant base.

If the plant is small, you can place your fingers between the stalks and turn the pot upside down. Use a shovel to help release a stuck plant base.

2. Remove the Soil

When the plant is finally out, carefully work your way through the hardened soil. Your aim is to set the plant’s roots free so that you’re able to clearly see where you’re making the cut.

3. Cut Your Divisions

The first thing you need to consider is the size of the new plants. You might prefer to keep a larger one for display purposes while the smaller ones grow.

Look for leaf clumps attached to roots and cut accordingly. Sometimes, you’ll come across plant suckers connected to rhizomes. You can put them in separate pots, as they can grow into mature plants one day.

4. Root Trim

You can trim off the old ends of the roots to easily repot the plant. Another option is to cut the length of the root, keeping only a tiny portion. 

This trim will give your Calathea Ornata a fresh start. It’s the go-to solution for plants struggling with root rot.

5. Transfer to Containers

Unlike many other plants, Calathea Ornata won’t grow its roots in water. With that in mind, you should immediately transfer them to other containers. Add some layers of soil, then place the plant division and top with more soil to keep it in place.

6. Maintain Growth Conditions

After the plants are potted, you’ll need to add water. The leaves of Calathea Ornata are relatively thin, so they’re less efficient in retaining moisture.

We suggest you cover the pots with plastic bags to recreate the humid environment of the tropics. Alternatively, you can keep the pots in a humid space, like the bathroom.

Lastly, keep the pots away from direct sunlight to help the plants grow rich-colored leaves. You can place them between larger plants to benefit from the shade of foliage, just like the forest shade.

How Do I Propagate Calathea Ornata From Seed?

Growing Calathea Ornata from seeds isn’t the most effective method, especially for beginners. Still, you can opt for the seeds if you’re trying to save some money.

We recommend you start the seeding process during springtime. Typically, your seeds should germinate within 2-4 weeks.

Fall is also another viable option for indoor plants, but the cold weather will slow your plant’s growth rate.

Here’s how to grow those seeds:

1. Use a seed-starting soil mix to fill small pots or an empty egg carton.
2. Add enough water to make the soil mix moist, but avoid overwatering.
3. Gently press the seeds in the soil.
4. Wrap a clear plastic bag around the seed containers to trap the moisture inside.
5. Place the seed containers in a well-lit room, but avoid direct sunlight.
6. Check the soil mix every other day to ensure it stays moderately moist.

Wrapping Up

Getting free plants from a mother Calathea Ornata isn’t that challenging if you know what to do. We’ve covered how to propagate Calathea Ornata to ensure the new divisions mature properly. 

Plant propagation is a skill that’ll allow you to expand your indoor garden at a minimal cost. More importantly, propagation allows you to save withering plants.

From our viewpoint, this skill is both exciting and empowering to house plant growers. Think about it; if you restart the cycle after the first generation matures, you’ll be giving away many Calathea Ornata gifts in no time!

Other plant propagation guides

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How to Propagate Calathea Medallion

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